1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Unresolved ABS filament crumpled during print

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by ssshake, Mar 20, 2015.

  1. ssshake

    ssshake Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2014
    Messages:
    109
    Likes Received:
    17
    This is my first time printing with ABS. Ive tried at different temperature ranging between 210-230.

    Like clock work I get through the first half of the first layer, then when it goes to fill in the right side, filament stops coming out and it starts binding up. IMG_20150320_193554.jpg IMG_20150320_193546.jpg
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Even 230 may be a little on the cool side for ABS. I have run it as high as 245.
    You shouldn't need to get beyond 250, but bump it more.
     
  3. ssshake

    ssshake Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2014
    Messages:
    109
    Likes Received:
    17
    Hmm, my printer shuts off at 240 due to the XXL LCD. I guess I could unplug it for now and test.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Make sure the parts cooling fan is OFF for the print. At least the first few layers.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Hot and slow works for ABS. Keep the temperature around the print as stable as you can (no drafts).
     
  6. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2014
    Messages:
    651
    Likes Received:
    89
    abs should "flow" at about 190. not well enough for a successful print. I've never printed abs above 235, or whatever the manufacturer recommended. usually 210-230 is written on it.

    if you were printing too close to the platten or if your nozzle clogged you could get that.

    The only time I've seen it do that was when I've done it trying to force a small kink through the nozzle. it gives it a good start at going sideways.

    The slightest kink will not go through. Your filament can be "wavy" but not kinked. no little V or ^ in it no matter how shallow. Its not so sensitive that you cant massage them out and make it work. Fold your filament, then try putting it through, it will stop.

    Just a thought. I respectfully completely with vigor disagree with the honorable mr Tomlinson on temperature.

    It shuts off at 240 because of the firmware.
    Even PET and Nylon will extrude at 210. Just won't stick well.
    TG temp for all of these is well below 200.
    and that "XXL" part of that description. Is there a smaller LCD available with smaller font? Is that how they're putting 70 dollars on a 5 dollar part?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Thermistors are not the king of accuracy and every spool of filament has a different sweet spot for flow point and this can change as it ages. [Thermocouples can be more accurate, but most folk don't use them. Worth the upgrade to convert to them however]

    Worry less about what the temperature reads and more about how the filament extrudes and you will be a happier camper.
     
    Ben R likes this.

Share This Page