Aluminum plate for build platform or print surface

So with the heated build platform coming with birch, which I do not like at all, I was thinking of replacing the build surface with aluminum plate. I got a quote for 4.77mm 10x10 aluminum for $15 for a print surface, not bad, thinner will be cheaper. Then I got thinking of also replacing the entire birch build platform with it, would need 10x15 though. I'm not sure how heavy it would be and if that would effect anything. It may also be possible to mount the heater under the build platform, But I think a 10x15 piece of aluminum will suck up too much heat and dissipate it fast. What do you guys think?

 

seshan that will work but, some things to keep in mind.

1) make sure its flat as it can be.
2) make sure the surface your attaching it to is flat also, or once the aluminum is heated it will flex to that surface.

aluminum makes a great build surface as long as you can keep it flat.

 

Yeah, I asked them about flatness and they said it would be fine, I'll have to see when I get the RoBo, but I might add some braces underneath to stiffen it up the plate some.

 

If the heat pad can be mounted under it I think 1/4" Garolite would be perfect.

 

carbon fiber impregnated with high temperature silicone works well. i use copper strips on each end of the carbon fiber cloth epoxied with conductive epoxy, then just thin out the first coat of silicone with xylene, and roll it on. build up coats until its well coated. i have a vacuum system so i put it on the back of an aluminum plate and vac bag it to remove any bubbles and to stick it well to the substrate.

 

Regarding aluminium, do you think a sheet of anodized aluminium would work? I've read you can get increased adhesion but the anodic layer becomes non-conductive and I have no idea if this is a good or a bad thing.

 

@da9l, good question! I have not tried that yet so as they say, one experiment is worth a thousand theories.

I think what you would want is un dyed hard anodized. When they dye it, they add a coat that seals the micro pores to lock in the color,which I think would defeat the purpose.

Ive also been meaning to try micro etched stainless along the same line of reasoning.

 

why would you need the aluminum to be conductive? you only need it to transfer heat to act as a heat spreader. anodizing doesn't prevent heat transfer.

conductive means it will carry voltage and current, anodizing may limit this.
but for this purpose being conductive is not needed.

 

Agreed on the conductivity part, but anodizing does create a micro pores structure and may enhance adhesion. Its its worth a try in the name of science.

 

Its sealed if its dyed or not, color wont matter. The color is just a middle process while the pores are open to take dye....if you aren't adding color, you just skip that step.

I would personally want raw aluminum, then block sand it perfectly flat with 1000 grit, and that would also give some bite. I wouldn't worry about that either way, throw a sheet of vinyl over it and it would be perfect.