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anyone update to the new software today?

Discussion in 'Software' started by supercazzola, Aug 16, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    and if for some reason the Arduino processor get a glitch you may lose the EEPROM values and need to reset them, but in all honestly that is rare.
     
  2. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    The R2 has a nice onscreen UI for changing EEPROM values, so no need to issue commands directly :)

    Running a test print at max acceleration set to 300 right now. If this works well (looking good so far!), I'll bump it up to 500 and see if I can tell the difference.
     
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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @sgomes Pictures or it didn't happen.
     
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  4. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    Here we go. Left cube is done with acceleration at 300, right cube at 500.

    IMG_20170818_233546430.jpg

    The right cube shows a bit of ringing, but much less than previous prints.

    Speeds are severely affected, though. Whereas prints at the default settings finished around the 1h15min mark (if I recall correctly), the print at 500 took 1h44min, and the print at 300 took 1h58min.

    Ideally, I'd want different accelerations for the perimeter and infill, but I think only Slic3r Prusa Edition has that option, and I've been enjoying Simplify3D so far... :-/
     
  5. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    sgomes -

    The following added to your Simplify3D Post Processing Script should set various accelerations. I plan to experiment with this on my R2 tomorrow.

    {REPLACE "; outer perimeter\n" "; outer perimeter\nM204 P300\n"}
    {REPLACE "; inner perimeter\n" "; inner perimeter\nM204 P300\n"}
    {REPLACE "; solid layer\n" "; solid layer\nM204 P300\n"}
    {REPLACE "; infill\n" "; infill\nM204 P800\n"}

    Edited to correct syntax.
     
    #25 Ed Ferguson, Aug 18, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
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  6. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    And the instruction sheet on how to get the stuff out shouldn’t be inside the unit. It needs to be on the outside of the R2. I laughed my ass off...


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    That's nothing uncommon today though - the standard is "go see instructions online" now...
     
  8. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    Very nice, thanks, Ed!

    It looks like the syntax changed for more recent Marlin firmwares, including the one the R2 is running, so it's now "M204 P300".
    Here's what I set up and am now running a print with:

    {REPLACE "; layer 1" "; max acceleration for first layer\nM201 X300 Y300\n; layer 1"}
    {REPLACE "; layer 2" "; max acceleration for rest of print\nM201 X1500 Y1500\n; layer 2"}
    {REPLACE "; outer perimeter\n" "; outer perimeter\nM204 P300\n"}
    {REPLACE "; inner perimeter\n" "; inner perimeter\nM204 P500\n"}
    {REPLACE "; solid layer\n" "; solid layer\nM204 P500\n"}
    {REPLACE "; infill\n" "; infill\nM204 P1000\n"}


    The first two lines use M201 ensure that the maximum acceleration on the first layer is 300, setting it to 1500 after that. Since this is a max acceleration setting, it overrides what's set with M204 if the M204 acceleration is higher.

    I'll post the results once the print is done!
     
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  9. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    The print turned out good, and it was definitely faster than printing everything with acceleration at 300.

    I noticed that I was accidentally printing everything at 100% infill (no wonder it was slow), so I am now printing at 15% infill. I also upped the other accelerations somewhat, while keeping the outer perimeters and first layer at 300.

    {REPLACE "; layer 1" "; max acceleration for first layer\nM201 X300 Y300\n; layer 1"}
    {REPLACE "; layer 2" "; max acceleration for rest of print\nM201 X1500 Y1500\n; layer 2"}
    {REPLACE "; outer perimeter\n" "; outer perimeter\nM204 P300\n"}
    {REPLACE "; inner perimeter\n" "; inner perimeter\nM204 P800\n"}
    {REPLACE "; solid layer\n" "; solid layer\nM204 P500\n"}
    {REPLACE "; infill\n" "; infill\nM204 P1500\n"}


    Let's see how this one turns out!
     
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  10. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    This last one is showing a bit of ringing, so I'm going to set the inner perimeters back to 500. Need to run now, but I'll post some photos later today!
     
  11. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    sgomes -

    I'm using the following Simplify 3D Post Processing Script values with my Robo R2:

    {REPLACE "; layer 1" "; max acceleration for first layer\nM201 X300 Y300\n; layer 1"}
    {REPLACE "; layer 2" "; max acceleration for rest of print\nM201 X1500 Y1500\n; layer 2"}
    {REPLACE "; outer perimeter\n" "; outer perimeter\nM204 P300\n"}
    {REPLACE "; inner perimeter\n" "; inner perimeter\nM204 P500\n"}
    {REPLACE "; solid layer\n" "; solid layer\nM204 P500\n"}
    {REPLACE "; infill\n" "; infill\nM204 P1000\n"}

    I also tweaked my Simplify3D ver 4 to take advantage of their latest features. For example, my Benchy has much better results at the top of the doorway & portholes due to the improved bridging algorithm in ver 4.

    The Cube and Benchy bow have almost no ringing compared to the ones I printed without the Post Processing Script.

    Benchy took 2.25 hours. The calibration cube took 48 minutes. Filament is MakerGeeks Silver PLA.

    Cube_Robo_R2.jpg Benchy_Robo_R2_Simplify3D.jpg Benchy_Robo_R2_Simplify3D_2.jpg
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    300 to 500 are my numbers for all of the Robo ones. Those are where I get the best results at the fastest speed.
    For rough prototypes I may go as high as 900.
     
  13. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    #33 danzca6, Aug 19, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @danzca6 I am not a big fan of using someone else's .hex files. You can create your own .hex file in the Arduino compiler using the Sketch >> Export compiled binary menu commands. Then you should be able to upload that firmware using the OctoPrint interface, I believe Robo included the OctoPrint-FirmwareUpdater plugin which allows you to upload your hex file directly and then it flashes it for you. If it is not included then add it as it is a very useful plugin.

    If you do this you can pull the latest source from Robo's Marlin Github repository. Past history has shown that they are not very good at numbering their revisions, or commenting the changes either.
     
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  15. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I imagine he's talking of the whole RoboOS, not just the firmware.
    The only way would be reloading a card with a backup you had previously made.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Kilrah @danzca6 specifically linked to the .hex file, that is Marlin firmware only. He has been around a long time and is a pretty smart fellow, if he meant RoboOS I am sure he would have said so.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you mean the RoboOS part -- you need a copy of the old SD card image.
     
  18. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Latest software, first print of this part, to be honest. I'm on the C2.

    DSC_0085.jpg
     
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  19. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Benchy certainly puts a printer to the test :)

    The scallops (bands) in Z make me think you may have:

    1. Inconsistent extrusion? Try a different filament. Also use the Wizard to extrude a length of filament and verify the length is correct (by first marking the filament).
    2. Partially clogged extruder? Clean it out.
    3. Temperature variation? Try a PID tune of the hot end.
    4. Bed wobble or vibration? Bent Z lead screw? Look for this as it prints.
    5. Loose pulleys or belts? Check tension on all belts and tightness of pulleys.
     
  20. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    If we're talking about the roof scallops... are you completely sure that this isn't in the part, as designed?

    I didn't slice this, I just sent the GCODE file from the samples to the printer from the OctoPrint interface. You can't see it of course, but the deck of the boat is beautiful on both planes. Running my finger along all top surfaces doesn't appear to have this effect.

    A lot of this was my inability to take a good/close/clear photo of the part. I'll try to chase a different lens for this.
     

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