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Solved Bad Prints

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Barneycastle, Jan 5, 2016.

  1. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    Hi All,
    I'm new to the ROBO 3D + printer....I have a problem when I try to print out projects. I have been using the M3D printer for awhile but I wanted to get bigger. Here are some pic of my bad prints.
    I'm using Hatchbox PLA filament.
     

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  2. Trama

    Trama Member

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    I think more info is needed to help you out. What are the heat and speed settings that you are using and are you printing via usb or sd card


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  3. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    Hi,,,thanks for the reply.....Nozzle is at 210 and bed is at 50..Using the USB port...I Will post pic of speed. Also now when I print the test circle. 1 side of the bed is lower than the other...I have manually calibrated it several times. I posted a pic of that also.

    Thanks again
    Barney
     

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  4. Trama

    Trama Member

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    With the one side of the bed being lower , it may be that one side of the z axis is slightly high. Mine shifted a lot in shipment and was out of square a good amount. You should measure the distance between the X axis rails and the bed, if one side is higher you will need to manually turn the z screws until you have it parallel to the bed, it shifts occasionally and is really easy to fix and check make sure you use a pair of calipers or make a calibration block out of wood, something you can set under each side to adjust the height. You should also check that the heated bed is sitting on the rails properly, it should be firmly attached to the magnets that hold it to the rail.

    As for perimeter speeds I usually run 50 mms on the inside and 35-40 on outside perimeters and support, 10 mm for bridge speed.

    Along with heating the bed I like using glue stick to help get the prints to stick. But from the picture of the calibration circle I would say your first order of business should be to check the height of the X axis over then bed. It looks like it is way out of square and the 9 point bed calibration won't fix that


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  5. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    Hi,
    I did the X axis screws...used a digital height meter on it from bed to rails...When it started the print and did the auto level it seems to have changed my settings.
     
  6. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Which settings seem changed?


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  7. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    The bed becomes uneven again. Like I never moved the X axis screws.
     
  8. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Could you post a picture of each z axis screw?


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  9. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    Sure here they are.....
     

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  10. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Looks to me as if the brass nuts that are showing are not seated properly. I had the same issue, a lot of these issues are from it being banged around in shipping, parts move around


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  11. Trama

    Trama Member

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    You can fix it but it may be frustrating. You have to rotate the tread and hold the brass fitting and the z axis carriage to try and get the brass fitting further into the z axis.

    I think it affects the interaction of the limit switch on the z carriage and if it does not contact correctly that specific side continues to rotate and throws is out of square


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  12. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    Hi again,
    That was some of the problem. Now that I fixed that, the Z axis is traveling up instead of down. When it tries to HOME the print head goes up from the bed. No wires where disconnected everything looks good.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is only going up then at least one of the Z axis home switches is incorrectly triggered.
    When it thinks is at Z home it raises itself 10 mm or so.

    They are in parallel so either switch being triggered make the printer think it is at Z home (on the bed essentially) so it raises it a little bit.
     
  14. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    How do I fix that? They look ok.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    First look carefully at the switches. The little button that activates is small and maybe it is not actually making contact with the carriage. If you manually move it and can hear the little click that means the switch activated then maybe you have a bad switch.
    Remove the wires and read across it with a meter (on resistance) while you manually press the button and make sure it is closing and opening. Assuming that is the case then the last possibility is a bad wire back to the RAMPS board (under the printer) or the wire has gotten disconnected from the board. trace it back and have a look.

    If against all odds all of that is fine then you might just have a bad RAMPS, but dollars to doughnuts it is something in the switch mounting, or wires.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is a simple circuit to the switches from the RAMPS.
    The firmware sees a HOME Z command and tells the Z to move down until one of the switches triggers then pop back up a little.

    So, if it is only going up then it already thinks it is as far down as it can go :)
    That may be a switch lying to the RAMPS, but the firmware is working.
     
  17. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    Thanks Mark that did the trick. My prints are still coming out bad... Here are some pics of the box calibration.
     

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  18. Barneycastle

    Barneycastle New Member

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    I returned the printer and they sent a replacement.. Plugged it in and it works great.
     
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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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