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Unresolved Best Settings for Robo-R1+ to get (at least) Ender 3 quality using Prusa Slicer?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by ShogunnX, Apr 24, 2021.

  1. ShogunnX

    ShogunnX New Member

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    Hi I have had an Ender 3 for a few months now. It sets a very high bar for my other printers. Realizing i needed more printers i was given($60) a set of Solidoodle 4 and Solidoodle Press. Not satisfied i piced up a XYZ Davinci 1.0A. Then came the $1000 Ultibots D300VS delta, and finally, a Robo R1+. My issue is, only the D300vs comes CLOSE to the Ender 3 in quality. All the other printers produce ...... "test level" quality, at best. I plan to sell the XYZ printer and POSSIBLY the Press. That leaves only the Robo, which LOOKS the coolest( ok the D300VS is monstrous and cool), and spec-wise , should be able to hang with the Ender 3 or at least stay with the Deltas level in terms of quality. However im not seeing this at all. The Ender produces results that look like i purchased the part from a store, BEFORE any post processing. Ill post some pics. This part is the top and/or bottom of a Raspberry Pi enclosure. Can anyone tell what settings or mods need to be done to the Robo to get the same quality? Thank you for reading lol. I took the pictures of items in front of their printers. The Solidoodle is home so he cant show his face, but his work is here as well, for comparison.These were all done with Prusa Slicer, as it produced the best all around results. Matter Control was even worse.
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  3. ShogunnX

    ShogunnX New Member

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    Thanks for you response. Ill check those out now
     
  4. ShogunnX

    ShogunnX New Member

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    I checked out those links. Not %100 clear on adjustments, but im getting a little better results the more i understand the "science" of the printers. Apparently Matter Control 2.0 KNOWS the perfect Z offset for the Robo R1+. I had the older version installed, but found out about a newer version. After the usual bs i was able to get the new version running and set all parameters back to default. Immediately my first test (xyz cube) had semi-perfect First Layer. The tips of the cube wer bending up off the bed some so i tried raising the bed temp from 50 to 60. Now totally perfect First Layer. The bottom of the cube looks like a piece of glass, you can only see a few microscopic lines. It would be difficult to believe there are melted lines that individually create the entire bottom layer. However, thats where the fascination ends as the rest of the cube would fail any test besides structural satisfaction. The top "Z" is rough with tiny holes, the blank sides have about 5 waves in them. the Y side has some waves and a very ugly right arm. The X is very lo res, plus waves, overheating, ect. Progress at least. Now every print i give it gives a perfect first layer, so thats good. In your honest opinion, Is the Robo R1+ even CAPABLE of results matching the Ender 3 and the D300VS? Thanks
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Almost all consumer grade FDM printers are capable of similar results.
    Different mechanics (gantry drive versus cartesian or core x/y, delta, etc) can make a difference in performance and sometimes minor improvements in quality. The trick for FDM printers is getting them setup and calibrated correctly. The links I provided have many different examples of "problems" with the printer setup and calibration and even slicer changes needed to sort out the problem exhibited by the pictures.
    This is almost always too few top layers. Most slicers default to (for example) 3 top layers. If your nozzle is 0.4 and your default layer height 0.2 then you have less than 1mm of material on the top. Add more layers. 1mm is a very small distance and not a very large shell.

    This is usually a minor issue with the axis (X or Y). With the Robo that boils down to either a loose/poorly tensioned drive belt on that axis or a worn/loose bearing on one of the shafts for that axis (LM8UU bearings are all that the Robo uses on each axis -- X/Y and Z). Drop a picture specific to each axis an we can make suggestions.
     

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