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Bridging question

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Trama, Jan 1, 2016.

  1. Trama

    Trama Member

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    I have been printing a lot of calibration bridges today trying to dial in my settings and to get a good idea on all aspects that effect bridging.

    I've noticed that a lower fan speed helps when bridging as well as 10mm speed although that seems to change with the resolution I am printing at. Any other factors I should be looking at


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    #1 Trama, Jan 1, 2016
  2. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    I print mainly PETG filament and my experiences/settings for bridging as follows:

    Slicer:Simplify3D
    Reduce print speed for bridges down to 10mm/sec.
    Reduce filament flow by 5-10% during bridging
    I have installed two filament fans and provide as much cooling as possible during bridging!

    My bridging performances are similar to this one:

     
    #2 lemuba, Jan 1, 2016
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  3. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Reducing filament speed sounds like a good call and it also seems that simplifie3d is a big part of solving a lot of my problems.

    Does s3d have a slice setting for extrusion speed during bridging or do you just have to do it manually when bridging happened?


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    #3 Trama, Jan 2, 2016
  4. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    See enclosed S3D settings I use for PETG - it works automatically...

    Printspeed: 60mm/sec
    Bridging speed: 20% equals 12mm/sec
    Filament Extrusion reduced by 2%
    Extra inflation distance: 2mm





    S3D_Bridging.jpg
     
    #4 lemuba, Jan 2, 2016
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  5. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    ^^By any chance you can share your retraction settings?
     
    #5 Jimmy Husain, Jan 2, 2016
  6. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    Enclosed...

    S3D_Retract.jpg
     
    #6 lemuba, Jan 2, 2016
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  7. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    But please note and understand, that all slicer settings only emphase the final print quality by 30-40%..
    The best tuning for also bridging was to ensure adequate filament cooling - two blowers and fan shrouds for my E3D V6 made the difference... Also improving/reducing stringing, visible Z-ripple, etc.

    Cooling.JPG
     
    #7 lemuba, Jan 2, 2016
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  8. Trama

    Trama Member

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    I currently have two fans but only one with a shroud and I am working on designing a second shroud that surrounds the entire hot end in an attempt to only have one fan. I also noticed that I got a better bridge quality from the sd card then I did from a usb print.

    Do both 40 mm fans obstruct the z height at all?

    Also what do you have extending vertically from the extruder?


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    #8 Trama, Jan 2, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2016
  9. Trama

    Trama Member

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    [​IMG]

    Something like that


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    #9 Trama, Jan 2, 2016
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  10. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Wow! That looks good. Did you try it already?
     
    #10 Jimmy Husain, Jan 2, 2016
  11. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Not yet. I have one more iteration that I just finished modeling and now need to print. It's a bit more complicated then I wanted it to be simply because of getting all the dimensions just right. Distance from the heater and clearance to the print bed. I made it for a 30 mm fan and I am hoping that the stock 40mm fan will help keep it cool enough so it doesn't warp to much. Once I know it works I will print it in petg or abs just so it has a better heat tolerance


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    #11 Trama, Jan 2, 2016
  12. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Would love to try that too when you got it done soon.
     
    #12 Jimmy Husain, Jan 2, 2016
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  13. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Will do. With luck I can have the first working one in place tomorrow


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    #13 Trama, Jan 2, 2016
  14. Trama

    Trama Member

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    One more change and I will have one that avoids the heater entirely. I will send pics as soon as it's done


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    #14 Trama, Jan 3, 2016
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  15. Trama

    Trama Member

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    So the shroud is good but the fan is not powerful enough. Chokes to much under the compression of the air


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    #15 Trama, Jan 4, 2016

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