Answered BuildTak melting

So I use simpliy3d to run my robo and use buildtak on my bed, the problem is the extruder heats up before probing so it melts the buildtak in them 9 spots. Now the nozzle it to close to the bed. Any one know how to set it up to probe then heat??

gcode start;
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
M565 Z-1.1 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
G29 ; run auto-level

Gcode end:
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G28 X0 ; home X axis
M84 ; disable motors

 

Give this a gander

https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2645

 

Ok great thanks mike. Will try that out


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Thanks so much for the link working just how I wanted it to!!!!


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Just curious, why are you using the buildtack?
I use Aquanet max hold that Robo says to use.
If it's a slim model, I usually just add 10 or 20 skirt loops and set it to attach them.
Hay, I sometimes have a hard time removing it. lol

 

I use buildTak because it requires no messy hairspray or glue stick to clean up. it just works. Sometimes it sticks way way way too good though. gotta find a balance. Its great stuff though.

Got tired of using hairspray or gluestick.. with the buildtak I can pretty much print any material and have my bed leveling way to high and it still sticks...never have to clean up the hairspray or glue residue.

 

I made a shield out of thin cardstock. I spray it maybe once a day. I clean the bed maybe once a week, at most.
I just printed a raptor claw about 133mm long and it only touches the bed in an area about 5mm by 10 mm.
OK I have to admit I use supports also and a 20 loop skirt attached. lol Frank

 

Good morning all, I tried out the code in the link referenced above and it seemed to work well. Only issue is that on the 9th point of auto leveling the extruder didn't lift up so it began to heat up and melted that spot on my buildtak sheet.
This didn't happen the first time I tried printing with the new code from a complete cold start. (Printer was off and it was my first time trying to print with the suggested code)
The first layer was "smooshed" so I adjusted to start the print at .25mm, hit print again and I started to run through auto level before preheating the bed. So I left it to do a few things around the house. Came back to check how the first layer was printing with the .25mm height adjustment and noticed a melted spot where the 9th auto level point is...
Is there anything I can add to the code so the extruder lifts after the 9th touch?
I'll copy and paste the exact code I used from the other thread when I return from work today, but it's from the same post in the referenced thread where you can "copy code".

 

Add a G1 Z5.0 after G29 to lift the nozzle 5mm after autoleveling.

 

Yea.. that was my post on simplify3d forum haha.. I had the same problem...but I guess I never updated that post.

here is my final code for now...adjust your Z offset ( M565 ) to suit. ..another mod I would Like to do is have it "wait until cool" before auto leveling.. right now if I print or fail a print and reprint i just wait till it cools..would be nice to have that automated.

Code:

G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
M565 Z-0.9 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
G29 ; run auto-level

; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.
M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature
M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp
M117 Printing... ;Put printing message on LCD screen