Unresolved Cannot make a print from my files

New machine -

I can print any of the files in the library but not my own. Tried inputting .STL. GCODE (from simplify3d) using robo profile.

Tried many files.
Example: put in an STL file of a fairly simple component. It took it displayed it and generated the GCODE.
Did not auto level so nozzle a bit too high. Paused,carriage banged against sides. When I resumed it did an auto level then it went crazy, printing partrs of my object on one side of bed then moved to other side making large bangs as the carriage bounced around, slammed into switches. The bed took off and made gear grinding type noises. Symptomss typical. Some objects stopped printing in middle but progress bar showed still printing, Evenn had file that started printing before extruder up to temperature. I can see if gode generated somewhere else could cause weird things but geode generated by MC should not. Each of the stl files I tried printed successfully on my other printer (not a robo).

After all of this I again tried printing from library. Worked
????HELP

latest: It no longer works with library files or Thinkerverse files either (nozzle too high up)

 

Ok.. did you set up simplify 3d using a ROBO3d profile? Does it have the right bed size on it under the GCODE tab.
Does it actually have the ROBO3d starting GCODE in there under scripts tab?

G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
M565 Z-1 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
G29 ; run auto-level

Are your limiting switches working.

open your S3D machine control... and connect
click the communications tab
type M119
It should have all the endstops as closed or triggered, or whatever it says.. can't remember the wording right now.

Press an endstop by hand, x or y or lift your carriage, Z and hit m119 during each. It should change the status from closed to open.. or whatever language it uses.
If you have a loose wire, the machine cannot home itself properly.

The STL doesn't matter. The slice matters. It can be a failed slice, it can be a bad slice.. but the STL won't make it run past its endstops. You have a hardware problem most likely.


I'm sorry, your english is a bit hard to follow.

 

looking at your last thread, I'm guessing your fix for that didn't fix anything and you're still in the same situation.

 

I will certainly try your switch diagnostic.

I stopped using simplify3d. I am only sending .stl files and letting MC code them. The fact that the library files print seems to show that I do not have a hardware or interconnection problem. My other printer works with these stl files.

My latest attempt is that i sent an stl file with a cube 2"x2"x.25 to MC. It printed until 80% and stopped dead. I loaded and tried again. It ran but the nozzle was about 1/2" from bed. These symptoms make no sense. I woUld guess that the Gcode files are bad but they have been generated by MC

 

defendermd - Thanks for your suggestions. Going to M119 shows all switches working. Tried jiggling wires, no change

g28 and g29 commands commands work. You gave me a good idea. I will try to capture the log of a bad run and analyze it.
Thanks again

 

Ok... well.. an interesting problem that CAN happen is.. if the X carriage is not near perfectly level... where the switches click pretty much synchronously, it can mess up the auto level pretty badly.
So the switches can work, and still fail.
I actually sat in the quiet room and put my head in the box and twisted the z rods till I heard the click. switched to the other... by the time I was done, it measured .02 difference between sides. Its hard to hear... well for me.

Its not the Gcode, unless you have a virus designed to mess up your Gcode... not likely. Its something to do with hardware or the communication with. I had a very similar problem just the other day. Never figured it out. Unplugged it over night. re-measured my x axis and it started working.

printing midair shouldn't be a communication problem, but maybe try printing from micro SD card. Stopping 80% through is frequently a USB problem. A lot of us go straight SD card now.

 

Good idea. but, I put sd card into slot. It went completely in and disappeared. I could probably retrieve it but I am not sure how to take unit apart.
I don't think its a good idea to take it apart since I will b returning it unless problems solved.

I tried printing some objects from thingiverse. One model was successful other did not work.

 

yea.. the worst design flaw of robo is using a micro sd. (its not a watch or cell phone) and then placing it under the machine in a slot for a full size SD card. Its easy to miss. Ok, the worst design flaw is that silly case... followed closely by the SD card.

Order this http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-...nt-Controller-LCD-Control-Board-p-922875.html
or this
http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-...Smart-Controller-Dispaly-Adapter-p-88825.html
they have REAL SD card slots and are plug and play. Unplug old SD and plug in new SD.
Where you get it doesn't matter... they're all the same, made in the same factories no matter who wants to fleece you for it cuz they bought 10000 on alibaba. internet re-sellers don't really provide a service worth money.

 

I don't know how easy ROBO makes it to return if you go through them.. but yea. There's a lot of initial quality issues with these. They deserve a chance to find their production errors, regardless of how well we all tinker them to life.
I returned my first one for similar erratic behavior. in retrospect, was probably an out of alignment z axis.

This is why I bought it through amazon prime. I had both my old one and the replacement at the same time... Which was useful in figuring out which wires went where, when the second one arrived in second hand, "refurbished" condition... sold as "new". It had been upgraded from stock, but the power supply wasn't even connected. But in the end, its the same quality and build size (when finally put together) as something like the $2500 machines. I'll save my $1700 and bang my head a bit.

 

This looks good. Does it just plug in to the ramp board or do I have to do something else?

 

I bought mine through amazon prime also. Their return policy is excellent

 

you know.. people are modifying this and that in their config.h... I didn't do crap. Just unplugged one SD card reader, plugged in the new one and the controller. I bought it from that site, so it's not anything special. My firmware is pretty much "stock" but for some temperatures and extruder step adjustments.
Didn't comment out, or add comments to anything.

 

Curious - was the replacement good or were you just buying a new set of problems?

 

My replacement was different.
It sounded different, it had little bits done to it that the first one should have had. The pots seemed to be tuned better, or something. The first one made loud "singing " sound as it moved. The new one was much quieter.

The original one had no- z smooth rod caps, any tape securing the threaded rods. My problem was, it would stop progressing up the Z axis. That is, it would G29, print the first layer and somewhere between the 2nd layer and the end of the print.. about 60% of the time. It would print BEAUTIFULLY out of the box, unless it just stopped. flashed the firmware, had a 1 on 1, nothing worked. No idea. Possibly bad logic? Bad comms?
the screws would go back and forth keeping it level across the bed, but not raise to the next layer.

The replacement had caps (poorly fitting, but caps) on the smooth rods, t-tape on the z rod couplings. Stripped screw heads securing the threaded rods in the couplings, disconnected power supply from the power switch.

Once I figured out that the switch was unplugged, it ran smoothly from the first print onward. Every glitch since then has been a simple, if not hard to find, little issue caused by me.

 

I saw a controller in the reprap store for $69 that says no mods necessary just plug and play. I wonder if this is worth the extra money. This model is demonstrated on youtube by nerdgasem.
What is config.h? I am using a MAC and don't think there is such a file.

 

I don't know. Is it at all different than the other ones that are $10 and plug and play?
I paid 10 for mine.. plug and play... I'm on V2 firmware. ITs the same hardware... is there any firmware in it that they change?

Looks like no.. its just your firmware and their hardware.. and as they don't make it... I dunno... something is getting people to pay that... Reputation?

 

yes there is.. its not on your mac.. but it can/should be. Then you need to move it to the mega
highlighted is the field to change your steps.. see the 723.38 or whatever it is... esteps.
http://help.robo3dprinter.com/c/Firmware
http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/MacOSX

 

and it looks like lcd controllers are plug and play in the newer firmwares.. its not commented out... but I'm not an expert...