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Can't get abs to stick.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Clarence, Nov 10, 2013.

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  1. Clarence

    Clarence New Member

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    So I am having the hardest time getting the abs to stick to the bed. I put painters tape on the bed, used alcohol to clean tithe tape and bed surface. Aligned the extruded tip to 1 sheet paper distance from the bed. I checked distance on four corners of the bed plate as we'll.

    The extruded is extruding just fine. But all it does is curl up and then wads up into a ball.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Temp extruder 220
    Bed 85

    I've played around with temps 200-230 and bed temp 55-90
     
  2. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

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    Sounds like you are still too high above the bed with your hotend. It might be that when you are setting your Z axis hight the endstop isn't triggering at the same point on reset to it's home.

    You might try this to debug that:
    start a print
    As the skirt starts to print hit E-Stop
    Slide the X axis over by hand to a clear space on the bed and check your height with the paper.

    If you are not set correctly, you can try adjusting your clearance with adjusting in Slic3r on the Printer Settings tab via the Z offset values. Negative values lower the head towards the bed.
     
  3. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

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    Also... have you tried printing with PLA first? General advise is learn to print with PLA first, and THEN tackle ABS.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The printed example layer should be flat and smooth (tesseract) has a good example photo posted.
    The head may be too high (as Das Wookie noted) each layer should be flat and smooth, not rounded.

    For me (most) ABS spools want about 220-255 at the extruder and 80-85 on the bed. The only issue I have had is some spools want to thread/spider web a bit. Those may require more fine tuning of the temps (I have to run them a few degrees hotter).

    We use the painters tape with a coat of glue stick on it before every print. :)
     
  5. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

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    Wait... you turn your temp UP to reduce threading??? I thought you needed to turn it DOWN to avoid that???!
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For that spool of white, it needed to go up 5 degrees c (all of the other ABS spools have worked fine at the suggested starting points).

    Turning it down actually made things worse...
     
  7. Clarence

    Clarence New Member

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    Hey Das Wookie thanks for the help. I did as you asked and hit the e stop during print. I cleared away the filament that had balled up a bit and the height was about 3 sheets of paper too high. I offset -1mm in slicer and it totally worked, I was able to produce my first 3D print tonight because of your help!

    Is it possible to offset by o.5 mm? I think I need to drop it just a little lower but don't want to butt the head against the bed at 2mm.
     
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  8. Clarence

    Clarence New Member

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    The glue stick sounds like a good idea too!
     
  9. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

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    :) Glad I was able to help Clarence. :)

    Also be aware that your Z height will change a lot (when we are talking tenths of a mm a tiny bit can be lightyears!) also based on the temperature of your bed and hotend. I can't home my Z axis if both are cold some days so before I start printing, I -ALWAYS- bring everything up to temp manually via the Manual control tab in Repetier FIRST... That and trying to be cautious about where my bed is at (my bed still isn't perfectly level, working on that now!) when I home Z will TYPICALLY keep me from throwing my nuts, but not always. {knocks on wood} So far tho, I've managed to not throw them for almost 36 hours!
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    FWIW: the past couple of days I have been working on a model with ABS that the only way to stop it warping at the ends was to run the bed up to 100. That solved it. It stuck initially, but by the time it got beyond the first three layers it was warping at the ends enough to cause it to self-destruct later. At 100 the warping at the very ends was minimal enough for the model to print.

    So do not be afraid to play with the numbers if things are not working.
     
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