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Clogged? Plastic won't feed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Ashton Harris, Sep 25, 2013.

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  1. wrdutcher

    wrdutcher New Member

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    This is exactly what I was looking for, I'm not a big fan of kapton tape either. Thanks tesseract.
    Now all I need is a 3d printer to install my E3d on. If only.
     
    #21 wrdutcher, Sep 30, 2013
  2. John Fretwell

    John Fretwell New Member

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    Hi
    Today my PLA filament got stuck twice and the 2nd time it actually snapped off.

    The first time i heated it up to 240 and managed bit by bit to pull it out.
    The second time i tried to pull it out it snapped off inside.

    I heated it up to 240 then used a fresh piece of PLA to push down, at first it would not go down much then i noticed the heat kept switching off which is what probably caused the issue in the first place. I had to keep clicking the heater on and off to keep the temperature up, when i was sure it was hot i kept pushing down then pulling up and bit by bit i could feel it getting lower and lower, eventually after about 15 minutes i could see the PLA coming out of the bottom, i kept pushing for about 30 seconds then stopped.

    My nozzle is clear but my heater issue remains and so my printer cannot be used.
     
    #22 John Fretwell, Oct 2, 2013
  3. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    REMEMBER DO NOT SET IT ABOVE 230C YOU WILL MELT PARTS OF THE HOT END AND RUIN IT


    YOU HAVE A STANDARD HOTEND WHICH CAN AND DOES MELT IF THINGS GET TOO HOT THERE ARE UPGRADES TO ALL METAL HOTEND BUT YOU DO NOT HAVE THAT YET SO IF YOU KEEP TRYING TO GET ABOVE 230 YOU WILL GET INTO TROUBLE

    sorry about the caps but that is extremely important and I mentioned it a few times
     
    #23 tesseract, Oct 2, 2013
  4. John Fretwell

    John Fretwell New Member

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    I will remember that thanks. The print i did yesterday came out with a setting of 219 and although it never came out right the heater never switched off and the filament came out smooth, it's a start i guess.
     
    #24 John Fretwell, Oct 2, 2013
  5. Sye

    Sye New Member

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    reading through the forums the hotends do not seem to be consistent in their quality.... Guess E3D at £50 has to be a choice :s (39+P&P+VAT)
     
    #25 Sye, Oct 19, 2013
  6. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I would not say that I would say rather they are being subjected to unrealistic temps. Using PLA is the best starting point and it does not have some of teh printing issues associated with ABS lifting late in the print or warping. The standard extruder works well with PLA and for the most part with ABS also, but some ABS require going above its limit while others do not staying below the 230 MAX is easy when using PLA and should be the starting point for most users so the current extruder would do the job.

    The all metal comes into play more for people who are trying things beyond even ABS, NYLON and LAYWOOD for example usually require a temp much higher then 230 and those are the main reasons to go with the all metal hot ends.

    For PLA only printers this hot end does just fine.

    Just wanted to clear up why many moved to the E3D my particular case was the use of NYLON that was very common early on.

    E3D is in England by the way so I am not sure what charges you still have to pay but shipping should be reduced at anyrate.
     
    #26 tesseract, Oct 19, 2013
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