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Solved Commands to calibrate the bed temperature

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Superman185, Apr 26, 2021.

  1. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    I just bought a Robo 3D R1 + V2 printer used and with a bed modification from partsbuilt (Heated Glass Build Plate for R1+) and the temperature seems to be off by quite a bit.

    The program says its 68c but I'm getting 25c with my infrared thermal and voltmeter temp sensor a 43c difference, my room is at 23.9c. I know this is bad and I don't want to have wrong information appearing on screen I currently have a replacement bed on it's way but I'm not sure this will fix the problem.

    I have gone to help(dot)robo3d(dot)com with this article 115002627252-How-to-PID-tune-your-printer-temperature, I followed all the instructions twice and there is the same variance.

    What are the commands in the terminal to change this offset, there must be a way to calibrate this more accurately.

    Any help would be appreciated as I have to heat the bed and check it with the thermometer to get the bed at the correct temperature.

    Thank you in advance
     
    #1 Superman185, Apr 26, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2021
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which program and where are you seeing that 68C?
    Is that what you are trying to heat it to, what are you trying to heat it to -- what temperature?
    The host programs (like mattercontrol) usually display the set temperature (what you want it to be) and the current temperature.
    What are those reporting and set to?

    There are many threads discussing the bed heater not responding correctly, but we need to know if it is being told to heat up and not heating or if it is just always reading the wrong temperature. With the bed at room temperature it should read in the mid-20's Celsius as that is usually about room temp. What does yours read at room temperature or startup of the host program?
     
  3. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    I see the temp in matter control

    After more tinkering last night I found that the mainboard (RAMPs board) is the problem, I was just too exhausted to post. I disconnected the ribbon cable and the program still shows a temperature. So the sensor must have gotten fried when I misaligned the cable for a moment and the power must have gone through it. I'll need to get a new RAMPs board to fix this issue. Unless you know of another way to fix it.

    Thank you for the reply Mark

    I will be making a new ribbon cable that won't allow for misalignment when connecting. Like a 6 pin video card molex.
     
    #3 Superman185, Apr 27, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2021
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably just the RAMPS is the problem like you said.
    Remotely possible it is the Arduino Mega, but not likely.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have several Robo R1/R1+ style machines and one thing to notice is that even when you get the temperature working correctly for the bed you may not be able to setup a PID tune in the firmware for the bed heater. This is simply due to the fact that it is not a high wattage heater and can take longer to stabilize the bed temperature than the PID algorithm in Marlin accepts. You can't easily replace it with a higher wattage heater unless you want to upgrade the power supply to a higher wattage unit since the MeanWell style power supply provided stock does not have a lot extra wattage to support a higher wattage heater for the bed. The stock one is 135w... You can go with a larger one if you replace the power supply with a larger one.
     
  6. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    Good to know. Thank you Tomlinson

    I get my new parts on Monday so by the weekend I should have it all up and running.
     
  7. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    Well bad news... the problem isn't with the ramps board.

    I changed the ramps board and the hot plate so the problem must reside with the arduino board. This really sucks, I wish there was a fully available schematic for both the ramps and arduino boards. I might have been able to see that the ramps board was a pass through for the sensor and connects directly to the arduino board.

    Now I got to buy an arduino board and learn how to programs the marlin.

    @Tomlinson do you have a post or site off hand that has those steps?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are schematics for the RAMPS board -- on the RepRap site (they designed it)
    The R in RAMPS:
    RepRap
    Ardunio
    Mega
    Pololu
    Shield

    https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4

    Arduino Mega: https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/arduino-mega2560-schematic.pdf

    One of the good things with this printer is that it is all based on open source code and electronics.
    Everything is documented somewhere :)


    While not officially from RepRap this page has more details on the schematic they derived: https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/8/83/RAMPS-FD-Schematic.pdf
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, May 1, 2021
    Last edited: May 1, 2021
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you give me the specifics of the changes you want to make I can help you get the firmware sorted.

    Also, if your old RAMPS is still good -- keep it for spares.
    Not too expensive and handy to have when you need it.
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, May 1, 2021
    Last edited: May 1, 2021
  10. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    Thank you for the info. Well the board is different that is listed on the site, this is the one I bought and was previously installed;
    partsbuilt ramps board r1 robo

    I was looking for this specific one and that's the one I couldn't find. So if I extrapolate my board onto this schematic I can see it does show the wiring basically going directly to the arduino after the input.

    Here is the trace I made, in yellow, for the output to the arduino board [​IMG]
    Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides - temp sensor follow -2.jpg

    This gives us C7 and R7 for T0 which extrapolates directly to my ramps board that I own.
    I've circled the pins that they go to on the arduino board and to the IC

    3 pins for the temp sensors.JPG

    So it can certainly be ramps or the arduino board since there is a capacitor and a resistor for the input of sensor lead on the ramps board. And since I do not have damage on my old ramps board and the new ramps still shows the false temp the damage must be on the IC of the arduino board [​IMG]

    Arduino to processor.JPG

    I'll see if the arduino IC or board has any damage after I get the new one in.

    I've never programmed or loaded firmware on a arduino, what do I need to prepare to load the Marlin firmware? I see many posts on this site that mention specific versions that they like because of issues or upgrades, one I saw was for automatic calibration I'd like to have that in the version I'd put onto the new board. So which version would you suggest?
     
    #10 Superman185, May 2, 2021
    Last edited by a moderator: May 2, 2021
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This FAQ post discusses loading the firmware from source: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/faq-r1-r1-series-printers.19735/#post-119335

    I run stock firmware (customized for my parts like the E3D) you can look over the various versions and see if you want to use the non-stock ones, but post comments/questions about those to the thread where they are discussed -- I can't really add much value there.

    I don't use autoleveling.*


    *It is not a hard job once you are familiar with bed leveling to do it yourself. Once done it stays done until you need to work on something related to it (like a new nozzle or something in the extruder or under the bed, etc). Takes 15-30 minutes to do.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, May 2, 2021
    Last edited: May 2, 2021
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Most of the various versions of the firmware listed on this forum (Marlin 1.1.x, Marlin 2.x) are all done by users like us and are not supported by Robo. Doesn't mean they won't work -- just read the threads where they are posted and discussed.
     
  13. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    Gotcha, thank you.

    Why don't you like auto leveling?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Because it is not better :)
    Like I mentioned above it is an easy task once you get used to it and it does not need to be done often.

    If I were to use autoleveling I would jump to Marlin 2.x and use MESH leveling which if you read the instructions is essentially manually leveling except the firmware stores the offset for each probe point and then never does the probe again until you need to reset the mesh.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html

    Videos are out there showing you how to do it if you want. Just google: marlin firmware mesh leveling

    also you can experiment by loading different versions and playing with them since you can always reload stock versions if you decide to stay on that version
     
  16. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    So it was for sure the Arduino board not the RAMPS or the hot plate. The new arduino board shows the temp accurately. Good to know for future issues.

    @mark tomlinson, thank you for all your help! You've been a real help and kind with your time.
     
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  17. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    The fun part is that the old arduino board has no visible signs of damage from this issue. It must be contained within the IC processor.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Either the processor or perhaps one of the buffer ICs that handle the interface to the actual I/O ... I haven't looked closely at an Arduino Mega schematic to see what is involved.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Best way to troubleshoot the board would be with a logic analyzer, but that probably will just end up telling you the CPU is defective :(
     
  20. Superman185

    Superman185 New Member

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    I did trace the ports on the site schematics that you gave me from the arduino site and I remember A13-15 goes directly to the CPU IC. There are no buffers on the RAMPS side either, I wish they did :(

    I still appreciate your help and want to thank you again good sir.
     
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