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Curled ABS

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Kingbob, Jun 15, 2014.

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  1. Kingbob

    Kingbob Active Member

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    I've had my Robo for 2 weeks now, got an E3D V5 head installed last week, and have actually started to get useable prints from it.

    I've started printing with ABS, but have found that on a medium sized print (basically a rectangle, 65mm wide, 120mm long, 20mm tall), that at the lower corners, the print sort of curls up away from the print bed.
    So when removed from the print bed and placed on a flat surface, the object can almost rock as the bottom isnt flat. It only seems to affect the bottom 5mm or so, after that the rest of the print is straight and level.

    Its not an adhesion issue, i'm using blue tape and hairspray, and last night the print was stuck so well to the tape, that the tape was pulling up from the glass bed.

    I'm using ABS bought from BilbyCNC in Australia, printing at 230c, bed at 90c. Though i tried the bed at 80, 85, 95, and 100deg as well with the same result.

    Is this inherent to ABS or am i printing too hot, cold etc?

    The way its going i'm almost going to have to add 5mm to the bottom of a print to sacrifice by cutting off afterwards.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks
     
  2. Bob64

    Bob64 Member

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    Make a heated build area? I used the robo3d box and just dropped it over and cut it a bit to allow the bed to slide fully. This keeps the temp stable and slows down the cooling process once the print is finished, allowing the parts to reach equilibrium without the outside being drastically cooler then the infill.
     
  3. Kingbob

    Kingbob Active Member

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    Hmm, worth a try i guess. One of the parts lifted so much at one end, the extruder ended up pushing it out of place, and leaving me a ball of spaghetti when i checked it an hour later.

    The bed was hot, but it is winter here, and was a cold weekend, ambient temp in the room was barely 10C.
     
  4. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    ABS does suffer from lifting/curling. Make sure you have the print fan turned off and no breeze. You also want to keep the build area consistently warm as Bob64 said. I'm still using PLA until I finish my upgrades to get the print as good as I can before I crack open my ABS spools. I'm using PLA, and my unopened ABS, from 3dprintergear.com.au and am very happy with the PLA, much better than the sample Robo filament that came with the printer. There's another thread where Mike and Printed Solid have designed a Perspex build chamber for the Robo too.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  6. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    $90 for the enclosure. I guess I'll try the Robo3d box method first!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Good luck making an enclosure you can view in and maintain max build volume, for under 90 dollars.

    Acrylic isn't cheap and the design took a great deal of effort to ensure a form fit seal on the curved face.
     
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