1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

E3D hot end movement

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Michael DiFilippo, Oct 25, 2013.

  1. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    400
    Likes Received:
    140
    Loving my E3D hot end but I have noticed that it doesn't seem "tight" that is, sometimes when printing I can actually see it slightly moving left to right (or side to side). The screws though are as tight as I can make them. Any ideas on why or how I could fix it? Thanks guys
     
    #1 Michael DiFilippo, Oct 25, 2013
  2. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    Mike I assume know how it is supposed to fit in there where the threads actually cut into the metal of the heatsink well if it loose and those screws are tight then I would take those screws out and replace them with slightly larger screws whci would cut in a little deeper hopefully locking it down you may have to drill out that original hole on the extruder assembly so think about it and I would not enlarge it too much.

    Not sure if this is the best idea but it is an idea
     
    #2 tesseract, Oct 25, 2013
  3. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    400
    Likes Received:
    140
    Yeah thats what I was thinking was that maybe the screws just weren't quite big enough to really grind into the hot end since it is metal versus the plastic of the original ones.
     
    #3 Michael DiFilippo, Oct 25, 2013
  4. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    mine worked but I almost stripped them I found that moving the extruder all the way to one side I could barely fit my drill in there and once they were definitely threaded I just did it really quick and they cut in fine never gave it a change to get out of the way I guess LOL
     
    #4 tesseract, Oct 25, 2013
  5. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    400
    Likes Received:
    140
    I think early on I had actually replaced the screws with new ones because the heads stripped out while having to disassemble to unjam some filament. I put in some 10-32 screws because thats what I had laying around, may not be the right size though. I'll figure something out to fix it haha
     
    #5 Michael DiFilippo, Oct 26, 2013
  6. alonsoa

    alonsoa New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    9
    Any suggestions for installing the fan? In the E3d v5 manual, it says to install directly into a 12v supply. Any of you successfully try this?
     
    #6 alonsoa, Nov 24, 2013
  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    yep that is the way to do it tap into the PS and hook it directly there it should run when ever the printer is turned on
    Did mine months ago and is working great
     
    #7 tesseract, Nov 24, 2013
  8. alonsoa

    alonsoa New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    9
    I'm guessing that PS is the power supply? IMG_4115.jpg
     
    #8 alonsoa, Nov 24, 2013
  9. alonsoa

    alonsoa New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    9
    How did you go about connecting to the power supply? It looks like there is an open prong that I might be able to attach to. How does this work with the black and red wire?
     
    #9 alonsoa, Nov 24, 2013
  10. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    Actually Yes the Power supply itself not that switch
    I actually removed my power supply to get access to the labled connections there when i had to do some rewiring and I add a small bus bar so I could add other components if I needed toand then replaced it. It made future connections much easier.
     
    #10 tesseract, Nov 24, 2013
  11. alonsoa

    alonsoa New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    9
    Great, found the labeled connections. For future modifications, the added bus bar is a really great idea. I'll take a look into that. Thanks for the feedback.
     
    #11 alonsoa, Nov 24, 2013
  12. alonsoa

    alonsoa New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    9
    Hey Tesseract, i'm taking a look at the power supply and seeing how I can remove it to inspect the labelled connections. From what I can tell, the power supply is held through friction by 6 plastic tabs. Do you have any suggestions for safely removing it? I can't seem to get it to budge and am hesitant about using too much pressure. Thanks
     
    #12 alonsoa, Dec 23, 2013
  13. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    work very slowly to pry it out it can be done but I worked from many different points so as not to have to put too much pressure in any one spot. All I got in the beginning was very small moves 1/32" and then try a different spot to leverage further then slowly the movements became greater size and much easier until eventually it came free not one broken or cracked piece of plastic at all

    I would recommend getting two small terminal blocks 6 or 8 one for Pos and one for Neg just jumper each one so that all the terminals on one block are connected and the hook a Neg to one and Pos to the other
    Here I put a square around one of the jumpers I used
    blocksnjumper.jpg
    I used 6 terminals for each block and that seems plenty and it makes it much easier to add power for different things like LEDS
     
    #13 tesseract, Dec 23, 2013
  14. alonsoa

    alonsoa New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    9
    This is extremely helpful! I recently purchased an E3D hot end and wanted to pull out the power supply in order to directly connect the fan to it. While I'm at it, I am adding a solid state relay with a circuit breaker for the heat bed since mine is unreliable and has difficulty maintaining 85 deg temp while printing ABS. Might as well do it all while my printer is out of commission undergoing upgrades! Btw, they should pay you or at least give you some free merch for all the advise you are providing on the forum :D
     
    #14 alonsoa, Dec 23, 2013

Share This Page