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elemers glue (pva glue)

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by CAMBO3D, Jun 26, 2013.

  1. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    tip to help your pla stick to your boro glass build surface. Using Elmers glue.



    or you can use regular elmers glue sticks except just smear the glue thinly onto to surface, let dry. No need to dilute the glue.
     
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  2. Drathus

    Drathus Guest

    Nice. This looks far more economical than hairspray or blue tape, even if it has the cost of the little bit of wait time to heat out the moisture.
     
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  3. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I bout the supplies to do this as my backup plan. The glue is one $0.50 ate walmart. The Hair spray has worker great so far. It did cost $12 though.
     
  4. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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  5. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    and you put this on the boro glass correct not on the p heater plate. just clarifying.
    See, I ask the stupid question so other don't have to feel stupid even though they are thinking the same thing HAHA
     
  6. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    yes you apply directly to boroglass
     
  7. twopinacoladas

    twopinacoladas New Member

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    Good video, I just got my Robo 3d in last week and was trying Elmers glue last night to get it to stick better unfortunately it wasn't working perfectly it did help. The edges of the print were bending upward and would destroy the print. I am troubleshooting it adjusting the Zstop and height of the extruder... I may try a glue stick as well as getting a full bottle of Elmers to try this solution.
     
  8. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    We need more information. Are you using ABS? Heated bed? Bed temp? Extruder temp? Brim? Many here will suggest that you start with PLA. ABS will warp in many situations. Aquanet 3 Extra Super Hold hairspray dried at 50C before you start will hold the print, maybe even too well. Cool and use water if it is hard to get unstick the print. Glue Stick may work as well. I have never tried Elmers. Please search and read through the forum. This is all discussed many times over. There are also many threads on Z height and using skirt loops to refine it.
     
  9. twopinacoladas

    twopinacoladas New Member

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    Thanks for the reply I was going to go out and get a glue stick tonight but am going to try hairspray as well as the elmers water solution.

    I have a PLA+ABS model printing Blue PLA, the heatbed is at 60, I have the extruder at 200 for the first layer and 190 for the rest I believe.

    Actually I just noticed the heatbed was only on 60 for the first layer and 0 for the other layers. I just changed it to 60 and 60 must have been an over sight also just changed it to 190 and 180 for the extruder. All of the other settings are back to the Robo 3d Getting Started Guide well everything is now except I am using the heatbed.

    I'll continue to look at the FAQ and around the forum I am sure I'll get it to work :)
     
  10. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    For PLA I suggest 50C for the first layer and say 30C for the rest. You really should not need it very hot to get the first layer to stick. For ABS I use 100C and 90C.

    I probably misunderstood when you said "The edges of the print were bending upward and would destroy the print. " Yes, that is not warping. Looks like the PLA was just not sticking in areas. You can also specify a brim in Slic3R. This is useful for PLA with small bed contact patches and in my experience always needed for ABS.

    This entry discusses dynamic Z height adjustment:
    http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/ross-printer.1633/#post-12165
    Some don't think it is needed but I find that the heat bed can change the height after leveling and make this necessary. My bed also is depressed slightly in the middle and this helps.

    This entry from tesseract shows a good photo of a first layer skirt thickness.
    http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/pla-not-sticking-to-boro-glass.1015/#post-7675
    Don't make it so low and thin that it is really transparent or it plastic will build up on each pass as it extrudes over the adjacent pass. It is a tradeoff with the buildup but you can make a really shiny smooth first layer surface with the Z height adjusted low and a clean bed.

    Good luck & have fun!
     
  11. twopinacoladas

    twopinacoladas New Member

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    Thanks again Steve, I had one good print and have been experimenting as it seems to be going good then something goes wrong that topic looks like it will be good help. I have almost had enough for tonight and will try again tomorrow. I bookmarked both links thanks again.
     
  12. scotta

    scotta Active Member

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    I have had very good success with glue stick as well, I've been using Uhu in the yellow tube.
    PLA 70 bed
    Abs 90 bed
     
  13. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    just to let you know I am using the CraftBond Elmer's Extra strength on glass at 90 for the bed and 250 for the Nylon and for very small prints it seems to be working ok still get some warping but it is sticking to the bed
     

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