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Solved Error: Extruder Turned off Mintemp Triggered

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Larry H, May 30, 2016.

  1. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    The start of this issue was I had a clog in my Robo 3d R1+ printer, after carefully removing the hotend I was able to heat it up and clear the clog. After trying to carefully place it on something fireproof to cool I put the printer back together.
    I'm pretty sure I didn't fry anything since after tracing the connections down to the RAMPS board I tried connecting the printer again which seemed to be working. The T1 connection looked like it was pulled slightly but I'm not sure if that had been there or not.
    I had temperature readings which looked correct, but once I tried using mattercontrol to move the extruder it moved slightly then stopped and the error "Extruder turned off Mintemp triggered" occurred again.

    Since it worked for a moment until I moved the hotend it seems to be a connection issue but I have not been able to find and fix it. If anyone knows where I should focus for checking the connections or if I'm missing something to check I'd appreciate it.
    Also since I'm newer at this I prefer pictures :)
    thanks
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi there. Max temp is a shorted thermistor min temp is an opem thermistor. Check both the connection by the extruder and on the ramps to make sure they are tight.

    They next thing you can do it try to heat and wiggle the thermistor wires (youll see where they are spliced to the connector about halfway between the connector and the canistor). If it min temps again the easiest thing is to hit robo up for a thermistor.

    The not so easy and could break the fragile wires is to cut the heatshrink off and see if a wire is loose.

    You could also do this with a ohm meter without heating the machine.
     
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  3. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Hi thanks I'll check the connections and see what I can find. If worse comes to worse do you know of a good thermistor swapout tutorial? I keep trying to find one in the forums and have come up empty so far.
     
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The problem will be finding one other than from robo. I haven't found one but they will send you one under warranty (ask for 2 and say it's due to clumsy hands, they gave me 2 because their awesome about warranty)

    To swap them you need to take the set screw on the bottom of the heat block loose and it should come out. Then pit the new one in tighten the set screw plug it in to the wiring and your good :)
     
  5. 3D Printer Man

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    This is what i have too right now, the wires to the thermistor are either touching each other, or it broke away from the thermistor bead. I think you need a replacement, or at least a thermistor. Here is a way you can make sure:
    1. Heat of the printer, only the extruder
    2. Wait for a min.
    3.Touch the hod end with pliers, see if they are hot, then if they are not, you have a problem.
     
  6. 3D Printer Man

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    I also was removing a clog. So maybe go into mattercontrol remove your printer, disconnect, and power up your printer, then turn it on, and readd it to mattercontrol.
     
  7. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Hello,
    So I checked starting at the RAMPS board and worked my way back. It seems the thermistor is loose or the connection has broken away from the thermistor itself. I used a ohm meter and found if I gently push against the wires toward the hotend I get about 100 ohm which is what the thermistor should be. If it's just loose does anyone know a way I can fix this without taking the entire hotend apart or needing a new thermistor from Robo3D?
    thanks
     
  8. 3D Printer Man

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    That is what happen to me, one of the wires are removed remove the heat shrik tubing and check the thermistor

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is either a loose connection on the wires where they attach to the thermistor or the thermistor is cracked. Usually the thermistor itself breaking is completely fatal so it is more likely a loose connection in the wiring to the thermistor.

    The R1+ has connections inline with the thermistor and heater core for the hotend. Two small black connections so that you can easily disconnect them. Look at those and make sure they are tightly connected to each other. If the thermistor one got loose it would behave the way yours is.
     
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  10. 3D Printer Man

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    Mine is that the thermisor wires are separated from the bead, one of them

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is a more normal failure and those are not repairable so in your case you need to replace the entire thermistor.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Larry H Your thermistor looks like this. The black connector on the end is what @mark tomlinson is talking about making sure is tightly plugged into what it goes to
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. 3D Printer Man

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    I am talking about how the wiring on the bottom into the beed is secured
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I was talking to the original post as this is his thread.
     
  15. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    That was the problem thank you! I was gently trying to take off the little bit of electrical tape when the heatstrink tubing suddenly came off because one of the wires was disconnected. I was able to carefully soldier it back on and put everything back together and it seems to be working properly. I'm going to have to try a 20mm calibration cube after I rerun the calibration later because I had to manually turn the x-axis rods to get the extruder high enough.
     
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  16. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Thank you everyone for your help!
     
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  17. 3D Printer Man

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    So do you need a new replacment like me?

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
     
  18. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    So far no, the printer is behaving normally. It's going to take me a bit to recalibrate the printer before I try printing a calibration cube to make sure everything is working.
     

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