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Filastruder filament

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Thamer Albahiti, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    hi, i was wondering how many of you got the filastruder ?

    i bought mine a while back but haven't used it till recently.
    i used the pellets supplied with the filastruder but i didn't like it at all
    first of all the filament breaks from the 3Dprinter, is this normal ? is it because it couldn't pull it ?
    it happened twice, both times i was away from the printer
    second, the layers separate, i donno if this is from the temperature or the fan or bad filament ?
    third, the filament either doesn't stick properly or the starting point lifts up like a snowboard edge.

    any ideas?
    i couldn't test with any other filament coz i don't have any :S
     
  2. elmoret

    elmoret Filastruder

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    I've made several hundred prints with Filastruder filament, I cannot break them by hand or get the layers to separate.

    Warp is typically due to bed adhesion and/or bed temperature. Have you printed with ABS previous to this?

    http://www.filastruder.com/pages/testimonials
     
  3. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    i got white filament, same as the printed hopper that came with it
    i didn't know if it was ABS or PLA, so i tried printing with it at 220 c but it came out burnt
    so i assumed it was PLA

    when you bend it towards 90 degrees it snaps
    Robo 3D is my first printer, i haven't printed with ABS at all. just used the sample filament that came with the Robo3D
     
  4. elmoret

    elmoret Filastruder

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    It is most definitely ABS. No idea why it would burn at 220C, it definitely shouldn't.

    It isn't white though, it's natural. More of a light tan. If you expect it to be white, you might think it is burnt.

    I think the learning curve you're about to encounter is related little to the Filastruder itself.
     
  5. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    i made the filament with the filastruder at 182.5-185 degrees, i have it hanging vertically to avoid filament coiling at nozzle which i had.
    it works great, I just wish they would have labeled it, i haven't seen ABS filament, so i donno if it is

    the color is natural like you said, should i try printing with it as ABS and check my results again ?
     
  6. elmoret

    elmoret Filastruder

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    Looks like you bought a kit. The product page specifically states that the included material is ABS. Specifically, it is Sabic MG94. You should have used most of the included 1lb in the clean out session.

    Yes, definitely print as ABS.
     
  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    elmoret just got a filastruder and was trying to do PLA so far nothing I would want to go to near my printer
    so far less than satisfied but it may be me I have no instruction on what to do I was told 165 for PLA and 220 for ABS taht about all I know
    I have color pellets but they do not get mixed up at all I may get a short length in teh color I was hoping for but then it bogs down and almost stops then I see colored pellet come through and a bunch of natural right behind rather quickly and it coils and forms a blob

    I have about 25 good sized blobs so far as guess that something
     
  8. elmoret

    elmoret Filastruder

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    Not sure where you heard 220 for ABS, that's really hot.
    165 is in the ballpark for PLA.

    PLA is very picky, and it seems the master batch for PLA that people have been buying doesn't like to melt at temperatures needed for PLA extrusion - so you may need to grind the PLA with a burr grinder first. PLA is also sensitive to moisture and other variables. It is however possible to get great quality PLA - here's an example:

    http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4108/my-filastruder-and-results-so-far-abs-and-pla/

    Filament extrusion is like 3D printing - there is a learning curve, and you have to be capable of patiently learning. The forum on Soliforum is a great resource, nearly every problem has been encountered there by now.
     
  9. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    ok, the left is an attempt to print as PLA (190 - bed 0)
    the right side is ABS stats (220 - bed 100) for first layer

    this is only first layer

    any idea what i'm doing wrong ?
     

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  10. elmoret

    elmoret Filastruder

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    I would say possibly your hotend on your printer is not calibrated well. Try 200C or 210C.
     
  11. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    this is still 190, and no bed heat. wanted to keep it till it finishes
    i'll try the 200 and hair spray next, should i heat the bed ?
     

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  12. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I agree there is a learning curve I am not frustrated by any means and I will be looking at the forum there closely in the near future. Any idea on the color pellets is that what you were talking about when you said I need to grind it down more
     
  13. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    182.5 - 185 later on worked great for the clean out amount they put in.
    but i have to say, i had to hang it vertically. coz horizontally it kept coiling up every time it had resistance on the filament outside
     
  14. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    that is what I am seeing Oh by the way I have the smoothrod holder done if you wanted it

    Any tricks on the colorants??
     
  15. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    defiantly, can u upload the file here ? or is it on Thingiverse ?
    i haven't used colorants, no idea about that, sorry
     
  16. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    OK here it is

    Some caveats Ok I made the holes very very tight fitting maybe even too much you will probably need to ream them out a tiny bit or you can work them back and forth but they will be hard to go on I did this to give as much support as possible. The part can be used on both side but because I did my own z stop mod before robo started doing it on all the printers I have no idea what the height needs to be on your print so you can do one of two things cut off what you don't so there is noo interference with the location or functioning of the stop switch, or you can stop the print after it gets to that height, by following it the print panel of repetier, you would have otherwise cut it at.

    This only holds true for the one on the right side the left will fit just fine as is.

    So you can either print both at the same time and stop both at the same height which won't matter that much or print them seperately and let one go full print and stop the other.

    I am continuing on and going to put a holder for the z stop on the right side one so make it a different part altogether but I need to get more exact measurements.


    This is mine installed
    NOTE the screws are offset like the original so the main rod will only fit one way below the piece
    2013-11-11 12.24.47.jpg
     

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  17. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    cheers!

    will give it a try tomorrow, dead tired today
    will let you know how it turns out
     
  18. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    just curious where are you located
     
  19. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    I work with a construction company, we are located in Khobar, Saudi Arabia at the moment
     
  20. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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