First time posting along with a few question

Being a complete neophyte to 3D printing (but not new to machining, 3D CAD or rendering) I was hoping for some help. Yea, I've spent a few days on Youtube and here searching for different things. I haven't even fired my ROBO R1+ up yet, just reading and doing some research before hand.

I thought I would fabricate a cardboard picture frame with sides (of sorts) with most of the bottom cut out to keep the hair spray off most of the other components. Maybe even something to cover the stepper motor/extruder assembly ... dunno yet. I haven't a clue if that's a good idea or not since I haven't even used the printer yet. <smile> Anyway, after I plug it in and get everything running, is there an easy way to move the bed forward and backwards as far as possible so I am able to place the cardboard frame on the bed and spray it easier? BTW, what is the maximum travel distance (in inches) does the bed actually travel "each way" from it's center position? If so, how would I go about moving it without crashing it. I haven't a clue if there are safety stops from something like this.

Oh, almost forgot, is there a clear video somewhere showing how to load filament in the ROBO R1 plus? I know it's hard to believe but I did search here and on Youtube.

Cheers,
-JW:

 

If you're using Matter Control, then you can click "Release All" and the motors disengage so that you can move the bed where you want it. I don't know the maximum travel distance off the top of my head, but you can't crash it forward or backward (unless it's too close to the wall!), there are "safety stops".

I find putting a piece of paper over the extruder works fine in terms of keeping the hairspray off of them, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. You only need to spray the area that the bottom of your print will occupy, and that's usually not very big.

I struggled with loading filament as well when I started. I was told, and it's the best way in my mind, to unscrew the two screws with springs right behind the filament entry hole (be careful not to let the springs fly off as you unscrew), and move the little black tab down so that you can see the hole more easily. It's an unfortunate design flaw in my mind that you have to peer through the slot at the top. Just push the filament in until it starts extruding (of course, make sure your extruder is heated to the proper temperature for thfilament you're using). Sometimes it catches, so don't be afraid to push and prod a little bit.

Print out a top feed spool holder, it's a lot better than the one that comes with the printer. And make sure to read on this forum about seasoning the nozzle and using an oiler. Welcome to the ROBO, I've been at it for a month and love it!


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Great, thanks for the quick reply. Yea, I read about printing a oiler etc., seasoning the nozzle and relocating the spool, thanks. I will look into loading the filament method you suggested as well. I had no idea the extruder had to be heated before inserting the filament? Hum, does that mean the filament has to be pulled out of the extruder/nozzle arrangement when you have finished printing a project?

 

Only if you want to change the filament you're using. I had issues switching spools at first, but after doing it a few times it has become easy. You have to hear the extruder so that it will melt the plastic and enable you to pull it out/push it through - otherwise it's still hard plastic. When changing spools, remember that you'll be pushing some of the old plastic through first before the new stuff comes out.


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Okay, a couple more questions;

1. If making a print and something goes astray, is there an emergency stop button, or some sort of stop and reset to a specific height and position?

2. I don't have a grasp on this process ... skirt printing. Is it possible "just to print a skirt" and nothing else? Seems this is the way to go to make sure everything is being put down correctly. If again something doesn't look right while skirting, can you stop the process and make the adjustments to correct the problem.

3. I assume adjusting the Z height is pretty common when setting up a printer for a particular filament, then again the speed also has to be in the picture.

4. As strange as it may sound, those that print and install fans, what exactly are you trying to cool, the model being printed or the nozzle? Seems to me that cooling fans would have a direct effect on all the setting you just tried figuring out to make the model print nicely.

Cheers,
-JW:

 

Thanks for the clarification Mark, it's appreciated. So is "something" like your .STL file (0.03 thickness in the Z) pretty typical for the 1st layer viaual testing?

I figured one was trying to cool the model but wasn't sure since all of the fan designs I've noticed seem to be cooling both somewhat. I thought there would be some sort of perforated hollow disk/ring design, feed by a ducted fan and only blowing down on the model would make more sense.

 

I ended up making a spray shroud out of cardboard. Seemed to work great to me but maybe overkill. <g>

http://www.pbase.com/smokedaddy/image/162249644/original

 

My first test print didn't go that well. <smile> Suggestions are more than welcome. Probably a Z height issue, Macro offset? I also noticed the head was "jerking" on the perpendicular to the circle movements on some of the g-code, Speed Multiplier? All my setting were at the default. I'm using PLA. Pretty crazy, I figured it would do a lot better on the "first print". <bummer>

http://www.pbase.com/smokedaddy/image/162249645

-JW:

 

I thought it was odd that I didn't have the option to configure for ROBO R1 Plus as the video showed on their site. Maybe the software was updated after the video was made. Anyway I was reading Mattercontrol - Guide To Automatic Print Leveling but I don't have that selection in my options menu? Meaning auto-leveling. I wonder if that's an old document too.

Confusing time,
-JW:

 

That picture looks for SURE like a first layer hight issue. What is your first layer hight set to? I found .1mm - .2mm works good for me

 

Update,

I tried to make another test print. Looks like it goes through a 4 point check on the bed (maybe more). The nozzle went all the way down and almost touched the bed (like really close) and left a little tiny PLA point on the bed. Then paused, raised up and started to print the test circle. Problems is the nozzle is about a 1/2" (not exaggerating on the distance) off the bed when it prints the object.

On another note, even when the machine is idle a "tiny" bit of PLA is extruded on its own. Is that typical? I should of mentioned that I deleted and re-installed the software, driver etc. on my computer before this attempt.

-JW:

 

Could this be the problem? When the X, Y and Z are homed, the switch is open?

 

Ok so set your first layer height to .1mm (and also uncheck - avoid crossing perimeters). Upload another picture and lets see if it changed your print The switch you uploaded only homes the x axis and does not have any effect on the z axis. It only precess for a second and thats all it needs to do! Good luck.

 

Okay, I set my "first layer height" to 0.1mm and unchecked avoid crossing, still the same problem. Even tried a different model. The extruder is "probably" a 1/2" above the bed when it prints.

 

I issued a M119 in the Gcode terminal and received an "open" status on all the switches, so that's not the problem. What next?

 

Not directly after canceling. The stepper motors will still be engaged. Can you post a pic of your printer printing in "air"? You might have to change your z offset because changing the first layer to .1mm should have worked.

 

If you can show videos too.