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Flame Polishing PLA

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by P1RATA, Nov 16, 2013.

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  1. P1RATA

    P1RATA New Member

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    I have a butane flame torch. This model is used in dental labs to flame polish mouth guards and bleaching trays. You can get it from Amazon for about $50, but there are probably cheaper options.

    [​IMG]

    http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-ES1000-Angled-Butane-Micro/dp/B000NCW0GC

    I tested it out on a few of my projects.

    WARNING - PLA CAN CATCH ON FIRE AND IT WILL DROP FLAMING MOLTEN BALLS OF PLASTIC.

    If you're going to try this, be outside in a fire-safe environment and use appropriate protective gear.

    This torch allows you to set the flame intensity. I found that the focused, high intensity setting was amazing at instantly removing the travel webbing left after a print.

    [​IMG]

    They low-intensity setting is what I used to try and polish.

    [​IMG]

    Lightly passing the flame over the surface left a glossy finish, but the layer lines are still visible...so all it really did was make the surface a little more shiny, but not smooth.

    I couldn't really capture it on camera, but basically the surface went from a matte finish to a semi-gloss.

    I tried to get a little more aggressive to see if I could smooth out the layer lines. This is where I ran the risk of setting the whole thing on fire.

    I succeeded in eliminating the lines, but I don't think I succeeded in improving the look. The surface became glossy and the lines were gone, but the surface was a little uneven and got mottled in areas where the plastic got too hot.

    Here are some before and afters:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also, the plastic got very soft and several of my hollow pieces started to warp or bend.

    I don't really think this is an effective way to finish the surface, or I need to practice more.

    Any suggestions?



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  2. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    sanding should work,
    i'm still in calibration phase as i'm having a few problems here and there
    but u can sand almost anything it just takes time
    use high grit, the higher the grit number the finer it gets

    watch out for friction heat as it may melt your printed item if you're using power sanding
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Interesting approach.
    I was originally looking for a chemical approach like we have for ABS, but hmmm.
    This would work on some parts.
     
  4. P1RATA

    P1RATA New Member

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    I'll give that a shot! Thanks.


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  5. P1RATA

    P1RATA New Member

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    It works okay on solid pieces if you take your time. The hollow pieces start to deform pretty quickly. But even just a quick polish that leaves the layer lines can be a nice finish.


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  6. Thamer Albahiti

    Thamer Albahiti Active Member

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    what grade sand paper are you using ?
     
  7. P1RATA

    P1RATA New Member

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    I'm not. Sorry for the confusion, that other reply was to tomlinson's response to the flame polishing.

    I do want to try sanding some models, though. I may be able to sand out the layer lines then quickly add a shine with the flame polisher. It might be easier than trying to get a polish from a high grit paper...or maybe I'll set fire to another model ;)


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  8. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    This flame polishing thing seems to work quite well with 'filled PLA'. The fill prevents it from deforming. Here was a quick try on some colorFabb woodfill. Ignore the bridge of the nose. That was me pushing on it while still hot to see what would happen (you can see what happened:) )
    I'm guessing this would work quite well with other filled PLAs (I think that the 'sandstone' material out there is a filled PLA)
    2013-11-17 15.25.43.jpg
     
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  9. P1RATA

    P1RATA New Member

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    It really does look good. I need to keep trying it out on other colors. I didn't love what it did on the black, but I can really see its potential on this piece. What did you use?


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  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    The 'el cheapo' (harbor freight) version of your torch. It doesn't have the low setting. It only jets. I quickly passed it back and forth over the surface until it started to sweat.

    Full disclosure, this piece was printed on an ultimaker at 100 micron and it looks pretty darn good without the polishing as well. The grains of the wood fill tend to hide the print lines. So the smoothing effect of the torch may not be as much as it appears.
     

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  11. Aspiring.Edifier

    Aspiring.Edifier New Member

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