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Solved Gantry Brace (?) Broke Off + Other Issues

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by gearprinter, Apr 2, 2021.

  1. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Robo 3D R1+
    E3D nozzle 1.75mm 0.4
    PLA
    -

    Hello,

    1) I broke the gantry brace on my 3d printer while trying to tighten a screw. Any idea where I can find the file to print a new one?

    2) I'm getting what seems to be layer shifting (see image). What's the best route to fix that?

    3) Is there a mod I can do for manual bed leveling? My current setup is kind of a nightmare. I'm using shims under each corner of the bed which is very hard to control, and slow to modify the height. Also I have a slight sag in the center of the bed.

    Photos: https://imgur.com/a/dkiVUzZ

    PS - Do you prefer I ask multiple questions in 1 thread or separate them in the future?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    1) I would say look here for the part you want and generate the STL (you may already have one in there) then print it. This is a complete model of the printer : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729956 with all parts.
    2) There is a procedure:
    (a) Check all belts are tight.
    (b) check the cogs attached to the motor shafts that move the belts are tight (there are set-screws)
    (c) make sure nothing is getting caught up in the printing (i.e. part of the wire bundle snags on something) since that can screw it up
    3) Nothing to mod, you can use tape for the shims or once you know the exact size of the shim, make one out of plastic and glue it in place. The sag is fixed by getting a sheet of float glass cut to size of the bed from a hardware store and use binder clips on the ends (Y axis ends) to clip it over the existing bed.

    as for the thread -- either way is fine. We do want questions or posts about specific things in the respective sections of the forum, but this is fine.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not sure exactly what part that is from -- if it is at the top of the threaded rods it may be a Z axis stabilizer (although it is different).
    If so the ones in the Zip could be printed and used instead.
     
  5. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Thanks Mark appreciate your help! I spent some time working on the printer and it seems to be FIXED! :D It's printing really nicely across the entire bed. The sag in the center of the glass doesn't make a noticeable difference. All the lines are very clean.

    The belt tightening under the bed is a bit sketchy. On one end there's a heavily abused and stretched out spring, and on the other end there's a loop with a nut that secures it to the frame.

    https://fileleaks.com/rxEQVav43K/MOV_0139.mp4 (tried to upload it to your forum but it timed out 2x)

    Any ideas what replacement parts I should get?

    If I need to change the glass in the future could I take the heating element off the old glass and attach it to the new float glass with aluminum tape?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well the spring is a hack :) That is not normal

    If you can print, print the replacement part (which will look identical to the other end of that belt).

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:396823

    If you can't print let us know and someone can print you one and ship it if you cover postage.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, that will work. Although as long as it is not higher wattage (130w) you could buy any 12vdc heater pad and use that instead if needed.
     
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  8. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Any idea what the metal loop that goes into the belt holder is called? Also would they sell that at a specialty fastener shop or would I have to order it online somewhere?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Can I get a picture of the metal loop and where you see it?
     
  10. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Screenshot attached.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Is that the one under the bed (Y axis) or some other axis?

    The Y axis one is on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:396823

    The X axis is a loop so it does not directly attach to a side brace (it connects to itself in the center of the crossbar)
     
  12. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Yep, its the Y axis. Any idea what the loop thingy is called (any the size of it if you know offhand)?

    The belt wraps through the loop and is secured by zip ties.

    One end is setup correctly the other end has the spring, I don't need that belt holder you linked I just need to take out the spring and I can attach the loop thingy.

    Oh, also there's a little "belt tightening brace" that's on my Z axis belt. Any idea what the correct name for that is? It's similar to the metal piece on a clothes pin. I'd like to put one of those on the Y axis.
     

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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That part I linked to IS the "loop thingy" :) One at each end of the Y belt where it mounts to the rails.
    The belt makes a loop in that and there is a hole for a screw to come in from the outside of the rail asnd a slot for the nut that the screw will go into. That screw tightens the belt :) by pulling the loop thingy in (away from the center) by the nut.

    Look at the model again and you see the loop for the belt, the hole for the screw and the slot for the nut.
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Apr 13, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2021
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This video might help :

     
  15. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    thanks for that video! so BOTH the steel loop AND the spring aren't right. I'll print out those parts and give it a shot. will update soon with results.
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, someone had cobbled that together a bit :)
    Easy to fix -- the stock screw and nut is (if I remember correctly) 3mm and about 25mm long. It might be a 2.5mm ... but pretty sure it is 3mm.
     

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