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Unanswered Got it today, but....

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Sergio8849, Nov 30, 2020.

  1. Sergio8849

    Sergio8849 New Member

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    So im completely new owner of a brand spankin used robo 3D printer and ive gotta say, you get what you pay for. Ive plugged it in and used MC to connect to it and it worked!... but it says theres no extruder. So i look under the printer and low and behold there isnt one so i just remind myself, i paid 50$ for this. Then I look around further and a corner of the print bed is chipped off. I figure its not gonna effect my prints but id still like it to get fixed yknow? So I go to the robo site and order another one but its for the r1+. Now what im trying to figure out is if that r1+ print bed will fit on mine as well as what in the ho ha this cable is.
    [​IMG]
     
    #1 Sergio8849, Nov 30, 2020
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The black glass bed on linear 8mm rod rails is standard on the R1 and R1+ so the bed will work.
    I think PartsBuilt.Com has them for the printer...

    The cable in your hands has the power to the hotend heater core (the round metal part) and probably the connector the hotend thermistor (the blue wire). I can't see if the thermistor is still attached on the end of the blue wire.

    The only real difference between the R1 and R1+ was the fact that the R1 had threaded rods for the Z axis and the R1+ has integrated leadscrews. There are a few other minor changes with some of the electronics, but nothing functionally different.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Nov 30, 2020
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You will. find a number of (as in many) threads on here discussing options for bed replacement. If PartsBuilt.com does not have the stock beds you can replace it with a lot of different options. I used an aluminum plate on one of mine -- that has not broken since :) The Aluminum plate has a slightly longer time to stabilize at temperature, but if you replace the stock 135w heater for the bed with something larger* (which requires a larger power supply) you can get the heat times back into normal

    Have a look around in the various threads and welcome!

    *you can use an A/C powered heater directly off of the mains to the power supply with a relay to switch that 12v power signal from the RAMPS
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Nov 30, 2020
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  4. Rod Smith

    Rod Smith Member

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    One of the things I found frustrating about my Robo3D R1+ when I got it was how frequently prints would pull chunks of the bed out with them. It turns out this is a real problem, especially when printing with PETG. Thus, before you spend good money on a new bed, I'd suggest you print with the one you've got for a while; you might find it's collecting (losing?) chips, and that could get expensive if you end up dropping money on the printer every time a new chip appears. Personally, I like the smooth finish that a glass bed imparts to prints' bottoms, but the things are delicate. I opted for an aluminum bed when I built a Kossel XL, and overall I prefer that. I'm currently doing some upgrades on my Robo3D R1+, and I'm considering alternative beds for it.

    As to the hotend, you can buy replacements for $30 or $40. Personally, I'd go on eBay and search for "Hexagon hotend;" however, that search will turn up some unsuitable items, too, so it helps to know what you need. Here's the listing at Partsbuilt for the right item. It has to have a 12v heater cartridge (or you could chance that the one you've already got will work). (Some printers use 24v components, and a 24v cartridge won't work in a 12v printer.)
     
    #4 Rod Smith, Nov 30, 2020
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