How To: Easily Unstick Large Prints When Using Hairspray

I've seen quite a few people posting about having trouble removing prints from the glass bed when using hairspray, and instead of posting this a bunch of times I figured I would just make a thread about it.

Let me introduce you to your savior:


Just wait until the bed has cooled down then flip the can upside down and hit the base of your print with a couple of short blasts and viola, un-stuck parts. Most of the time as the bed is cooling you will hear some pops and cracks as the part un-sticks itself, but if the part is still stuck after the bed returns to room temp the trick above works every time.

Now I have no idea how the borosilicate glass used on our printers compares to tempered glass which is (for the most part) immune to rapid temperature changes. If you crack your glass because you sprayed too much while the bed was still warm and dropped the temperature down too rapidly don't blame me. This might not even be a possibility but I feel I should mention it.

 

Tempered glass is actually not super heat resistant, it's designed to be used as a "Safe shatter" glass so it doesn't fracture into sharp edges.

Borosilicate (pyrex) on the other hand was invented for the sole purpose of sustaining rapid temperature changes. Going from ambient to negative temperatures is probably not a high enough delta T to risk cracking. Though going from a 100C bed to negative might.

 

Ah Pyrex is what I meant, and had no idea that Pyrex was borosilicate. Interesting, thanks for the clarification.

 

Yup, Corning is holding onto that trademark well. Pyrex is to borosilicate as Kleenex is to Facial Tissues

 

My PLA held on the boro glass with hairspray, comes off easily when after the print, I heat to 220 and twist to pull off.




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Regular freeze spray would probably last longer and you don't need to turn the bottle upside down. Something like: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Super-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B008UH3NB8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1397603047&sr=8-8&keywords=freeze spray

 

That's 220F or 110C right? If anyone does this with PLA the need to be careful that the PLA does not warp or bend because that is above its glass transition temperature.

 

I turn up the heat in MC clicking on ABS. The bed was at 55 during the print. Once the bed is starting to climb up, I fiddle with the print till it slips off. I don't think I reach 220 before I get the print off. It's just a temp to climb to while I find the sweet spot when it pops off.


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I use this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19029. Just press firmly under the edges until it pops. Move it around until the whole object pops off.

 

I picked up a few of these: http://toybuilderlabs.com/everything-else/palette-knife

They're excellent at getting very large adhesion prints unstuck. I still like my cricut tool for smaller objects, but it's got a max size limit.

 

Razor scraper does it for me

 

Cooling the bed seems to have great results when taking the obj off the bed.

I have also used the knock to the side of the object usually pops right off. Get a heavy tool and it will work. Produces a nice smooth bottom. Sometimes glass like!

I sometimes have to take my exacto knife and find an edge to get under. Sometimes when it finds the edge, it pops right off, flying across the room!

When it gets too hard to find an edge and I need the print to come off now, I heat the bed and turn my obj putting pressure on it till it moves off the bed. Not as good a method as poping the obj off the bed. But it will work.




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