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Improved Bushing holders

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Lance Weston, Mar 24, 2020.

  1. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    Awhile ago I posted bushing holders on thingiverse for the R2. I have improved the design. The rear holder now has the x offset increase built into it. My bearing holders are more rugged than the R2 versions. you can not break them. I use open loop belting. The R2 design had a spring tensioner inside the bushing block. That meant as you started and stopped you could change position. My design is fixed, no tensioning spring. You can set the tension way too tight if you wish. I use m2.6x12 socket head self tapping screws.

    Although my holders clear the rear is really close to the print head. I made Bearing housing R2 Rear v4.stl to increase the gap from the print head to the holder by 0.4mm to take into account variation in the switches.

    When setting this up using my spacers which I posted earlier you do not need an alignment tool. When assembling on a bench you can just slide to one side. When each holder hits it's gear tighten the screws. You have to make a hole in the carriage in the x axis and the y axis to slide in the 6mm rods. I used a dremel. Only tighten the screws on one side so that 6mm rods can move with slight change in parallel of the 8mm rods. Because the 6mm rods are clamped they will not drift.

    There is no play so alignment is critical. If the 6mm rods do not go in and out easily the alignment is wrong and has to be fixed.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/M2M2-6M3M3...hash=item2d05881bd6:m:mv_f55L_rGR9tH5CNbYX1uw

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10PCS-SF-1-Self-Lubricating-Composite-Bearing-Bushing-Sleeve/142545443014?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-5-PCS-...hash=item33e0f6b8d7:m:mDLLCXfjlgimElY5jhm0jlQ

    updated August 09, 2020
     

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    #1 Lance Weston, Mar 24, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
    wuidling, albert3d and mark tomlinson like this.
  2. albert3d

    albert3d Member

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    Will you be updating this on Thingiverse (or some other stl repository that doesn't run slower than molasses)? :)
     
  3. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I was no planning on it. I figured this was going to be the place for the R2.
     
  4. RoboticsRob

    RoboticsRob Member

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    Hey Lance, figured we should discuss these on the thread for them.

    These really do look like a great solution for some of the print issues I'm seeing on the R2 when I push the speeds/accelerations a bit.

    What length belt did you pick up for use with these? I'm also a little unclear about how the 6mm rods are secured, but that might be a lot more clear after I print the parts out (starting working on that today).

    Thanks,
    Rob
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Many of the R1/R1+ parts are on thingiverse too. It is your call, I usually at least duplicate them on thingiverse with parts I did.
     
  6. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I am using open loop belting such as:
    https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Met...id=1601934778&sprefix=gt2+belt,aps,143&sr=8-2

    I cut to length when I fit them in. The caps which the rods pass through use a 2.6mm socket head sheet metal screw to clamp the rods. The Robo blocks would allow the rods to drift and would jam or not not hit the end stops after awhile. Belts stretch after a few weeks I re-tension the belts and after that they are good to go.

    I make a hole on either side of the carriage to insert the rods through. The rods should go through the bearing block then print head and directly into the hole in the bearing block on the other side. Then should be done from both sides. If it does not go stright in then the printing job is off, but can be corrected. When it has happened to me I push a 6mm reamer ( an A drill bit will work ) and adjust the hole so that the rod passes directly to the hole on the other side. You need to align first, but this is easily done by sliding the bearing holders to one side against the gears. If you do not make sure the rods move freely through the print head you will get binding.

    Print out a set of my spacers. It will make reassembly so much easier. Each spacer is imprinted with it's location on the carriage. Make sure you do not lose the two shim washers that are used where the gears meet the flange bearings.
     

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