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In need of help. Globs

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Mrimstad, Apr 14, 2014.

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  1. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    Have been fidling with my r1 for some time now.
    I was at first a little dissapointed that i recieved my printer this late and didnt get the
    uppdated bed assembly. But what can you do.

    I have been sourvcing the forum and found a wealth of information learned some things,
    been puzzled by others.

    So here is the problem.
    [​IMG]

    The skirt looks like the line you can see the the most right here. Clean, but maybe to squashed out?
    I have looked at the picture versing these forums of the perfect layer. And i have tried to move the z stop screw, but it doesnt seem to yield any changes. Maybe i am not moving it enough, or my eyesight isnt as good as i thought?

    These ripples will eventualy even out with additional layers.
    But i can hear and feel the whole printer rumbling as the hotend drags over these ridges.
    Wich i cant imagen is good.
    Also when i release a print, you can clearly see on the underside that the areas where this happens
    seems to have air pockets, in lack of a better explenation.

    Currently im printing pla.
    Standard mc control settings from the web.
    I made sure fillament settings where correct at 1,75
    first layer 0,3
    subseeding 0,2
    print first layer at 195 down to 190
    innfill 0,6
    bed at 60 down to 40
    cooling on auto
    changed retraction to 3mm in hopes of helping things.

    I hope this isnt to dumb to ask. i realy tried searching and looking for all the newb threads
    But i just cant wrapp my head arround all this new stuff.

    Thankfull for some feedback
     
  2. Drew Eby

    Drew Eby Member

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    Hi Mrimstad,

    First off welcome to the forums. As to your problem, I believe this is a leveling issue. It appears that you are still slightly too close to the bed. If you print a brim around your print you can manually spin the threaded rods to raise it up just a little bit. You do not want to raise it too high, as you are already pretty close.
     
  3. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    Hello Drew, and thank you.

    I will try to raise it some.
    Another question in between the next one :)
    How styrdy is pla supposed to be? I feel that with smaler, or maybe thinner parts is the right wording.
    It feel's realy brittle, they are easy to bend and im scared to do to much to them as it looks as the though the layers are going to split apart.
    I understand judging things like that is hard withouth photo evidence and i will post some once the last print is done.
     
  4. Drew Eby

    Drew Eby Member

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    Some of the really thin objects can be flexible. However they are still pretty strong and hard to break. Once you get that layer height down (probably the trickiest part of printing) things will start to look a lot more solid.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Take something like the attached STL, adjust it to fit most of the entire bed and print. It is only 2 layers high, make sure everywhere is level and you can adjust the initial height to give you perfect starting layers, pretty much everywhere. (that is two steps, leveling and then adjusting the starting height)
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    Ok, thank you for the stl.
    I sett it to print right now.
    So now commes the next question. I should probobly have been able to find this somewhere, but how do i raise or lover the z axis at sertain points? I know that the software has this bed leveling setup that i have done a couple of times, didnt realy gain any succes to be honnest.

    For instance the layer seams fine trought the back portion of the bed, but squashes out towards the midle front.
     
  7. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    I seem to have got the height upp, and what a world of difference it makes!
    First layers looks fine now, and no more drag acoss the print.
    But ofcourse there are new problems. The head is oozing werry much, is this normal?
    It seems to come from every screw hole and the body itself.
     
  8. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I really disagree with using the threaded rods to adjust the height they should be used to get the x axis level and that is all. Once it is level then the z height adjustment screw should be used to adjust the overall height.

    By using the threaded rods to adjust the z height all you are doing is making the axis unlevel this may work for a print but it leads to having to do this for every print as each print may differ in the points it is actually printing

    it is much better to make the adjustments where it maintains the levelness of the x axis and if you find points on the bed that are not level then work to correct that aspect as it is a completely separate issue.

    to the OP I do agree with Drew in that it appears you are too low and that your bed is not level.This can easily be seen in teh fact tha in certain parts of your print it is translucent and you can see the printing on teh bed right through the filemant and in other places you can't Ideally it should look like this

    first layer example-text.jpg

    The overall bumps you see is also an artifact of the layer being too low so lower the z height adjustment screw a bit to make the nozzle start a bit higher and things should be better.
    filamentcross.jpg

    Your print is definitely at the #5 level
     
  9. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    Thank you for more replyes.
    I made the hight adjustment with the z screw and its not somewhere in between 4 and 5 i feel.
     
  10. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Did you mean to say now somewhere in between 4 and 5 i feel???
    try and get it to look like the first images that is a solid 4 and is the goal
     
  11. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    Ohh sorry, yes its now.
    Its looking realy good at the moment to be honnest, although im still wondering about how to level individual points.
    Do i have to adjust the bed itself?
     
  12. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    that is the best way.
    I am glad you understand my point on the not using the threaded rods to adjust things it just doesn't make sense to do it like that.


    I did a mod for bed levelers that seem to work really really well many people here are using them.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:125626
     
  13. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    Hmm good idea i must say, easter here at the moment so il have to wait another week for the springs but il make sure to try these ones out. Thank you
     
  14. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    I still have problems with the hot end leaking fillament out of everywhere still. No problem with small prints,
    but longer ones its to the ammount it will leak down and ruin the print.
    Any ideas?
     
  15. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    can you send some additional pics
     
  16. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Basicly seem to leak from the top, puddle upp on the nozzle head and then drop down.
     
  17. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    so you are leaking from the top of the block not the nozzle this is quite different
    is that the stock extruder
    the problem is the point where the heatblock connects to the cooling area is not tight at all no filament should come out from anywhere except teh nozzle tip anywhere else is a problem

    If that is indeed the case you will need to get that completely cleaned out so you can get the section tightened down and it will have to be done while the extruder is hot and the filament is softened trying it while cold will not work
     
  18. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    I also have the stock extruder and it move once on a print. I just moved it back into position. How do you tighten it? Is there a nut above the nozzle or is it a set screw?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    you may have to contact Jerry at ROBO via a trouble ticket on that (include those or similar pictures focusing closely on the top of the heater block) as I am not familiar with the new nozzles they are putting on the printers as stock

    It probably screws on but needs to be quite tight but not sure what process they have in place.
     
  20. Mrimstad

    Mrimstad New Member

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    I sent them a mail, i can not locate a sett screw anywhere close to the area it would have to be inn.
    Just tightened the two parts togheter for now, wile heated.
    Seems to stay dry , been printing for 8 hours like this now still no drip.
     
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