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Loving the PET G

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Ben R, Jan 30, 2015.

  1. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Grabbed some eSun PETG and its printing very nicely. I've only got a few prints under its belt, but it seems like a great replacement for most ABS functions. Firm but flexible. ZERO warping. Probably unpaintable... but not my thing anyway, I print baubles in PLA usually.
    Using 245C and an 80C bed and getting pretty darn translucent to transparent prints (depending on construction).

    Having my printer in the basement, even in winter, wetness can be an issue. The hydrophobic qualities of PETG are quite appealing in that respect... and the spool they give you with eSun stuff... beautiful.

    Seems to like speeds a bit slower. Not dramatically so, but using the lines type support, I've had some trouble at "regular" speed. But I've got my machine tuned for speed, so its higher than would otherwise be recommended anyway.

    Quite the machine the ROBO. Some good tuning and it just works beautifully. I've got all but zero ribbing on my prints now. Even after a good estep tune, still needed to adjust to .92 extrusion modifier. But beautiful.
     
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  2. XavierB

    XavierB New Member

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    Hi Defendermd.

    Glad to know you're having fun with Petg. For the while I didn't managed to use it. I had good resulta with other filaments but with PetG an TGlase (less issues but not really working...). Do you print with some hairspray on your heatedbed? Ustick? other adhesive? It started always on my side to extrude everywhere but not in place as if it slide on the printing surface.

    Thanks
    Xavier
     
  3. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Yup just some hairspray on a 60c bed. The stuff doesnt warp so its real easy. Prints like messy pla (retraction helps).
    Its not sticky... So you'd probably have to reduce primary layer height to get a good bond with the platform.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you reduce the temperature a bit as it is printing more layers it gets less messy.
    You can't start out colder though.. that is messy in a bad way.
     
  5. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Just got a new eSUN PET G filament.. wanted to do a quick test.. and I had jacked up my settings ... set up a new robo profile.. made a couple tweaks and voila.
    not bad. The shine makes it hard to critique, but its better than the PLA of the same that I printed. ALSO... bridged the entire top with no infill...

    Better detail than the PLA version too. Much harder, much more flexible (paradox!) and much more unpaintable. Though KRYLON fusion primer does a good job of sticking and setting you up to paint models.
    Good by PLA and ABS...
     

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  6. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    now if I can knock out this vibration I have somewhere causing shadows of anything in the XY dimensions.
     
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    those echoes are ringing. You can improve it by adjusting the acceleration and XY jerk. Or just slow things down.

    It's generally worse at smaller layer heights. I guess there's some irony to printing at higher quality settings. Surface is smoother, but you get more artifacts like that.

    This is one place where bowden feed really shines. Reducing the mass of the carriage greatly reduces artifacts like that. Although with the robo, I guess the mass of the moving bed is pat of the equation and not really something you can readily reduce.
     
  8. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    yea.. I used to know that.. for like a minute... adjusted all my acceleration/jerk settings... I've since flashed back to "stock" and forgot about it. I will go in and fix that up.
    Though, i'll take some ringing if it goes with speed for most prints.

    Thanks for the input.

    Also good to know the proper/accepted jargon.

    I am changing my extruder... I may just go bowden.. But.. man.. I seem to remember a friend of mine.. oh yea.. he wasn't keen because they don't retract well. But they do constant pressure better.

    He's currently building a scratch delta printer.. .so he's learning bowden.
     
  9. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    Might want to consider keeping two profiles. A day time setting focused on speed and an overnight that can go nice and slow.
     
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Great idea. With repetier I had more profiles than Carters has little pills. Makes it easy to switch parameters.
    With Simplify3D I have less, but I keep meaning to go back to more detailed profiles.
     
  11. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    I tell ya what... I printed all last night fairly slowly and turned the xy jerk way down... this morning, not only horrible ringing, but also, looks like it jumped a tooth in the y direction.

    Think I need to do some investigation.
     
  12. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    I didn't see any particular speed settings like you have to set in the firmware... just regular speed for bridgin... speed for perimiterin'.. I just turned down the knob on my controller.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Don't remember doing much with speed in RH, but here are the options for Simplify:

    <retractionSpeed>1800</retractionSpeed>
    <firstLayerUnderspeed>0.2</firstLayerUnderspeed>
    <adjustSpeedForCooling>1</adjustSpeedForCooling>
    <minSpeedLayerTime>15</minSpeedLayerTime>
    <minCoolingSpeedSlowdown>20</minCoolingSpeedSlowdown>
    <maxCoolingFanSpeed>100</maxCoolingFanSpeed>
    <increaseFanForBridging>0</increaseFanForBridging>
    <bridgingFanSpeed>100</bridgingFanSpeed>
    <defaultSpeed>3000</defaultSpeed>
    <outlineUnderspeed>0.5</outlineUnderspeed>
    <solidInfillUnderspeed>0.8</solidInfillUnderspeed>
    <supportUnderspeed>0.8</supportUnderspeed>
    <rapidXYspeed>4800</rapidXYspeed>
    <rapidZspeed>1000</rapidZspeed>
    <bridgingSpeedMultiplier>1</bridgingSpeedMultiplier>
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Either way (knob or profile) you can set them :)
     
  15. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    yea, that's all adjusted relatively with my knob... er... the lcd controller.]
    Can't set the xy acceleration or jerk in simpy... but I can on my controller.
     
  16. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    the PETG doesn't do round things and supported things well. I mean.. this is OK.. its only about 40mm long.. so its rather fine detail. It printed well, but the hairs really detract. There's a clean model under that.

    Also, assembly.. I used spin welding to put it together... BUT.. not the best. I bet hot glue would do ok. but only for models.

    You can see where "GIR's" head got some slippage. Just that one time. I don't think it would be due to my jerk settings, Its possible the wife checked the printer when she got home this morning and bumped it... but I think it may have slipped. Checking my belts.


    You can see my kid's other models in the background... printed with 18 dollar/kg ABS. Junky, but it does the job.
     

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    #16 Ben R, Feb 16, 2015
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  17. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    y axis was adjusted all the way tight and wasn't REALLY tight. I adjusted a few teeth and tightened it up significantly. Have more belt on the way, but this seems to be better. Looks like my prints might be slightly nicer.
     
  18. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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  19. Ruser

    Ruser New Member

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    Has it been difficult getting the PET to come off the plate?
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, too flexible for us.
     

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