Answered M999 Temperature Fell Too Much During Printing

There are no screws...


That is the adjustment potentiometer and if you mucked around with those they now need to be recalibrated... see link at end.

Not familiar with that error or MatrterControl really, but we can try and sort that after fixing the below issue...

You replaced the printer firmware with blink Sounds grim, but not really.
You simply need to use the Arduino IDE to reload the firmware... there is a post in the FAQ for this so start there and let me know what happens..
Start here: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/faq-r1-r1-series-printers.19735/#post-119335

 

Video here:
Text description and more videos here: How To Correctly Set The Motor Current Limit On An A4988 Stepper Motor Driver - The DIY Life (the-diy-life.com)

 

What I do usually is cheat a bit. I just tweak the current up until the motor moves smoothly and consistently. That is a good spot to stop, but you really should learn how to calibrate them. Heck, if they get out of calibration they are cheap enough to just replace them because out of the box they will be set pretty close to perfect usually.

 

Stepper drivers (a set for all of the steppers) is about 10-12$ from Amazon.

Threaded rods can be replaced (although them being a bit bent is less of an issue that you might imagine) also pretty cheap. I really would leave that until the very last since it is not likely a problem in reality*

The bed can be replaced with either a sheet of float glass on top of your existing bed and heater (<20$ at a hardware store cut to size) or an aluminum plate cut to size and move the heating pad from the old bed to the new one (there are threads on both of these approaches here in the forum if you need reference). Auto bed leveling is as easy as adding the required switches (a few bucks) if it never had them or if they are broken and then updating the firmware. None of those are expensive although of them the bed replacement is the most expensive and most work.

I have two Original Robo betas from 2013 and both have been converted to use the R1+ bed leveling hardware and firmware. I also have a couple of the newer R1+ series and those are cranking along well too. As far as FDM printers go these are simple and mostly open (and cheap) hardware. The only part that was not was the R1+ Specific RAMPS board they used in that model and it can be replaced with a standard RAMPS 1.4 with little effort.

Ultimately your call, but if you want a learning project -- it is a good one to tackle. We can help you get it sorted.

*the mechanical design of the printer carriage makes any wobble in the threaded rods a non-issue if the smooth rods are mechanically sound. Sometimes the plastic 'boot' that the smooth rods mount into will crack (print replacements) and THAT is a bigger issue since that allows the wobble in the thread rods to impact the print.

 

Yes, sorry if I was unclear there -- you must reload the Marlin firmware before it will even begin to work as a 3D printer again.
Load the latest version of the Robo firmware for your model. The FAQ should have the links to download that, but if you can not find it -- let me know and will stage it somewhere for you.

 

The firmware (the software code loaded on the Arduino) IS the software that makes it work as a 3D printer.
Do not get me wrong -- loading BLINK was a great way to test that the Arduino is working, but to get back to being a printer you need to reload the Robo firmware

The RAMPS is just a fancy Arduino Shield that allows it to do the I/O control for the printer motors, heaters and all.