Need help!! Ready to throw away.

I recently received my RoBo 3D and finally decided to attempt to set up and print after all the not so good stories I've read. Well after a few days and after trying just about everything from all the forums, I'm just about ready to go Office Space on it. Here are my problems (besides not being able to print):

I have the ABS model with heated bed but I'm trying to print PLA.

1) The print bed is warped so that the exact center is raised about 1mm higher than both sides of the x-axis.
2) I can't get PLA to stick to the bed without blue tape. I've tried just about every combination of extruded temp, bed temp and various nozzle heights and layer thicknesses.
3) Trying to home the z-axis is ridiculous. I followed the set up guide many times, nothing. Maybe because the bed is so warped. But my biggest frustration is that just when start getting something to print and something happens, when I try to re-run (without changing anything) the z-axis will run past zero and the z nuts will come off the carriages, so then I have to reset.
4) Extruder oozes and loops when printing. Loops even when raised and just trying to extrude to check the nozzle.

Does this printer really work? It seems that many people are claiming theirs is great, but I can't really see how without MAJOR help/mods.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

First the bed should not be that bend. Why is that? Maybe post a picture or ask the Robo-Team.

Is the Z-Switch working? Maybe the cabel or connection is broken or whatever?

Bluet Tape, or vynil, or some slurry, or hairspray, or whatever seems always to be needed to get a print stuck good.

 

I use green painters tape with Uhu. Glue stick. Heated bed around 55. PLA, black.

I reboot my computer before any job. I also clean out the filament head by unscrewing the brace, heat head to 200, remove filament. Cut filament at a 45 degree. Reinsert the filament. Rescrew brace.

Lift z axis to 50, extrude some filament. Works ok then carry on. If not restart from filament feed setup.

Do the paper level. Slight drag and lift a fraction.

If it's extruding the Home using Repetier home button (left bottom)

Begin print. Adjust z height on each side according by make sure to hold one and turn the other so that you have a flat line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

ive said it before and i'll say it again you can't calibrate a printer that isn't mechanically sound... ie..

you need to fix these mechanical issues before trying to calibrate.. all you will get....... is frustrated. contact robo have them fix your issues or fix them yourself.

1. get rid of the unlevel print surface,, do my modification if you like.
2. getting anything to stick to a warp bed is gonna be frustrating..
3. printer doesn't know where home is.. you have to home at the start of every print.. you can't stop and think you can just restart there.... you have to start over..
4. oozing is normal.. print priming perimeter to get your flow going ... then start your print.. these are slicer settings..

its frustrating i know.. but it doesn't help that the robo is not mechanically ready to print out of the box!!!

MY SUGGESTION IS SEND IT BACK!!!

 

My machine also overran the z axis and the nuts came out of the housings. It was caused by the z axis limit switch not being lined up with the tab that it is supposed to hit. I believe that it was moved while removing the packaging when I got the machine. My z axis home and repeatability problems went away as soon as I adjusted the stop to contact the switch properly.
Good luck, don't give up.

 

Ziggy, I just want to mention that the Z limit switch works fine for many with the limit screw hitting directly above the microswitch contact as opposed to hitting further down the lever. So I think the jury is out on which is the correct way. I'm not certain but I think robo is still shipping it in this position on purpose. Hitting directly above the contacts should be a bit more accurate because the lever can bend a bit.

 

I can say that the limit switch was put "backwards" on purpose. When I talked to the guys in the shop, they came right out and said it doesn't matter. I found turning it around gave me more leeway for adjusting the z-stop. I didn't have to have it down so low to trigger the switch.

 

Thanks for everyone's responses! I did change the orientation of the z-axis switch as recommended here and some other sites. I found the issue with the z-axis overrunning zero was that the x-axis motor-side was getting caught by the nearby cable bundles periodically. I mounted a fastener and cable tied out of the way, so that problem is solved. After Peter's suggestions I was finally able to get some things to print but because of the bed warpage, larger pieces of pieces that extend to certain areas of the print bed just don't stick because of the extreme changes in height. I am glad that I was at least able to get up and running! Thanks again!

 

I also had problems with the printer "throwing the z-nuts"
In my case the z-axis switch was wrongfully placed as mentioned by Ziggy.

After changing the switch the printer still throwed the z-nuts sometimes. In my case it was because a bit of cold filament was sticking out of the extruder. When starting a print the printer would send the head to the home position. which could not be reached by the cold filament. I had also found out that the back of my bed had an z-axis calibration error of almost 1mm, coursing al my object not sticking to the bed when printed on the back of the bed.

For correcting this problem, I have changed the connection of the glass (bed) to the y-axis rail.

I have used these bed levelers: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:125626
and for the lockingnuts I have printed these (scaled to fit m3, drilled a hole in it and glued it at the bold): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:194184



This mod gave me the option to calibrate the hole bed and it gave me the advantage that if the printhead moved to low (by wrong calibration or by some cold filament still sticking out of the extruder) the bed glass is pushed down instead of the printer "throwing the z-nuts"

I have the printer now for about 5 days and have added 8 mods so far:
- filament holder at the top of the printer.
- z rail stabilizers http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126873
- z-axis switch
- bed levelers
- extra fan at for fuse f2. heated bed cooled down after a few minutes, resulting my print object coming loose.
- printer feed, for creating room to place the fan.
- capton tape round nut in gear for feading the filament
- capton tape round nuts of z-axis nuts (for less easy throwing, be aware though: they do have to be thrown if the head goes to low!)

Hope these mods can help you to!

 

[quote="cosber, post: 14569, member: 402"I found turning it around gave me more leeway for adjusting the z-stop. I didn't have to have it down so low to trigger the switch.[/quote]


Doesn't really matter but I don't understand this. The microswitch holder clamp and be adjusted anywhere you want relative to the Z height screw. Being on the lever or above the contact will not matter for "leeway in adjusting".

 

I've had my robo since september and I've had the same kind of problems with thrown z-nuts.

The z-limit switch sits on the X=max side and Home XYZ is on X=0.

For me, when the extruder is on the X=0 side the weight of it is not enough to push the X=Max side down onto the Z-limit switch. The X=max side get's stuck before it reaches the switch and therefore the nozzle hits the bed before the z-limit switch.

I added some extra weight to the X=max side and that seems to have improved the situation for me. I'll send a pic from my mobile.

Regards, Daniel

 

[quote="SteveC, post: 14601, member: 378"Doesn't really matter but I don't understand this. The microswitch holder clamp and be adjusted anywhere you want relative to the Z height screw. Being on the lever or above the contact will not matter for "leeway in adjusting".[/quote]

My z-height screw was almost as far down as it could go. When I turned the switch, I was able to raise the screw up high enough to where I could make finer adjustments. I guess possibly the switch may be mounted too low, but since that was the way it came, I didn't want to mess with it.

 

FYI the bottom of my switch clamp is a bit over 3cm above the black base platform. The 10cm z-height screw is centered in the X bracket. When I got my printer I has to tighten the switch clamp quite a bit to prevent it from slipping down.

 

I am having the same issue with my heated bed. It is definitely about 1mm higher in the middle than at the left and right limits. This is terribly frustrating! Is there a fix for this other than buying a new bed? or is this covered by Robo3d? I haven't even had mine two weeks yet, and I am ready to go Office Space on it as well!

Thanks in advance

MadGrayHatt3r

 

I have thoroughly cleaned the heat bed with acetone, and then a lint free cloth. Using PLA with blue painters tape on the bed, I have only about a 4" x 4" area in the exact middle of the bed that I can print on... this is a major problem as I want to use the full 8" x 8" area for prints. The problem is that the edges of my prints significantly lift up off of the bed if they go beyond this 4x4 area. Drafts are not an issue as I have installed plexiglass doors on my ROBO, also, my prints are printed on top of a raft for extra support. I have tightened the belts, loosened and re-loosened the print bed screws sequentially, with no luck. I get the same results with ABS, prints are ok if they are small and centered on the bed within the 4x4 area. When I level the print head following the ROBO directions, the tip wants to strike the center of the heat bed when moved side to side, and there is a VERY noticeable amount of light under the tip at the left and right edges after I raise the print head so that it does not strike the middle of the plate. Using a straight edge, it is very evident that the bed is in fact warped. I haven't even had my printer a month yet, and can only print small things. Anyone know if ROBO will replace my bed?

Thanks,

MadGrayHatt3r

 

Hi Chris,

Have you made any progress with your ROBO? I am having very similar issues to yours.

Thanks,

MadGrayHatt3r