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Nothing sticking...

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Knighrider, Sep 2, 2014.

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  1. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    So after a few test runs on the unopened kickstarter printer (non heated bed) that went more or less flawlessly. Nothing is sticking to the bed anymore. I have tried the hairspray trick and it doesn't help. The last 2 prints I got any success out of were the upper Z rod supports. It would get all the way to the part that would end up attaching to the rod and then all of a sudden come of the bed. I am currently running the filament at 195/185 (initial layer/the rest of print)

    On a different not I had to uninstall and reinstall the mattercontrol software because it kept crashing after I installed the updated firmware.

    Any tips or tricks would be helpful. Even if it is just links to other threads I missed while searching. Thanks
     
  2. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    Here is how far I get on the upper Z rod support before coming off the table.

    [​IMG]

    Just tried to print a box and it didn't stick at all.
     
  3. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    I can't tell from the photo but did it get knocked off the bed by the extruder hitting curled up (overhanging) sections? These curled up layers also can look melted. Do you have autocooling enabled in your slicer settings? Does the print fan go on especially in those upper sections which have a small time per layer. Without some cooling those overhanging layers frequently curl up and can eventually get in the way of the extruder. I had a large print get knocked off from this after nine hours of printing:mad:.

    Also without the heated bed make sure the hairspray is dry before starting a print. I usually heat it up to 60C to dry quickly.
     
  4. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    I'm still new to this so I'm not sure about the auto cooling. I assume it got knocked by the extruder. The fan is on constantly after the first player I believe. The melted tops are the layers that got printed after release.

    Also another thing I notice on one of the prints is the first layer is only attached at the edges. I will see if I can get a picture of what I'm talking about.
     
    #4 Knighrider, Sep 2, 2014
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Welcome to MatterControl. Eventually (hopefully) you will out grow it.

    If it is really not fully sticking then that is a first layer issue. See @tesseract posts on first layer (complete with Pictures!) elsewhere in the forum.

    If it doesn't look like that, then the first layer is the problem (and often will cause you grief much later later).

    Not sure how to do it in Matter Control, but try a raft. Generate a 2 layer raft that the print sits on. THAT will cure your sticking issues if your first layer is not horrid.
     
  6. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    If the print is easily taken off the bed or can be knocked off, then your z axis is too high. Re-adjust lower.

    If the print is too hard to get off the bed after the print, then the z axis is too low, raise the z axis.

    Also, the z axis needs to be level across both sides. If one side is higher, then it tends to drag one side of the extruder head and will catch an edge of the filament causing your print to move.

    I use a business card to get an even level - moving the business card back and forth for the left, middle and right side of the extruder head over the bed. Making sure it's an even tension. Then I lower it using the z axis screw to finely adjust the height. Once the print starts, watch for the first layer, is being squished slightly onto the bed. If not, stop and readjust.

    If you are really stuck figuring it out, start the print and with both hands, lift or lower the z axis screws together till the layer looks good. Then stop, restart print. Then adjust the z axis screw adjustment till you hear a click. It should be good to print now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk in Canada
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    All really good advice. Read the forum (look for @tesseract first level posts--there are a few).
    With a BETA (which you apparently have) it is a manual process, but not something you have to do often.
     
  8. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    The only time I have to readjust my level is if I crash my nuts!

    Otherwise, I've been printing print after print for a long time without re-adjusting.

    I have found that after upgrading some software, such as Repetier or Matter Control and even Cura, that the. Axis needs to be readjusted. Sometimes the print will start above the bed and the z axis screw is not touching. Strange phenomena I have seen happening. At that point u just manually turn the z axis screws to lower the head and it's good after that for a lot of prints.

    I usually have problems with my nuts when I print high prints. After the head is really high up, close to the max. The print finishes and when I try to home, the end stop of the z axis is trying multiple times to home, and there is a slight distance issue, so the screws is not touching the end and I have to manually push the end stop switch to stop it. Sometimes one side will start to lower before the other, then I have to re-level. Very rare but it does happen.

    Your main problem is to get the first layer looking flat and visible. If you can't see the line, then your too close, the filament can't get out and will cause filament jamming. If too high, you will not get any adhesion.

    I've noticed that when taking the print off the bed, you can tell whether your too high too low of whatever by how easy the print comes off the bed. Too low and the print is really hard to take off. I'm not talking about too low that it can't print, but there is a degree of accuracy that you can be low and still print. You can also be high, successfully printing, and the print comes off so easily, you wonder how did it make it since the print just basically moves freely off the bed with no effort.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk in Canada
     
  9. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    After reading everything in thinking the problem is the height. I had to print and replace the Z rod guide support on the stop switch side. I used a file a forum member made which ended up being taller than the original. And instead of filling it down to size, I moved to adjustment screw. I will play with that and see what happens. What is the gap from the bed again? Paper thick?

    Also here is what the bottoms look like on the 3 prints that failed. The small one being the support attempt before the one that finished and is being used.

    [​IMG]

    The small one was also before repair. Where add the others are post repair. As you can see in one I can move the stands back and forth. Thanks I will keep you guys posted.

    Oh what would be a better software than matercontrol?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Paper thick is a starting point, not the final.
     
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  11. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    If you can move strands then your not low enough. You need to squish the first few layers together.

    Try using a raft. Make it 3 mm and that way the lower lev where the problem is, will be the raft and can be removed.

    I always use a raft. It's best for making sure you have a perfect bottom. The raft comes off - snap a corner, then use a sharp exacto knife going underneath to remove it.

    Try a raft and see what happens.

    I use Cura now and it has a support feature called Touching build plate. It produces support as needed rather than a lot that is a pain to remove on such prints.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk in Canada
     
  12. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    Well before I can do anything I need to troubleshoot the random connection issues
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    with some software the raft peels away as easy as the tape :cool:

    Well worth investing in a raft at any rate if sticking to the bed is the issue (or rather, lack of it).
     
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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For that try an powered external hub if you can. I know the common consensus was that the Macintosh was what needed this, but it has worked really well on my PC. They can be had fairly cheap these days.
     
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  15. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    That problem solved. If only the laptop hadn't "gone to sleep" right near the end. Ugh

    Lol thanks


    The bottom now

    [​IMG]

    Feels smooth compared to how it looks.
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There you go. That is really sweet.
     
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  17. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    Just wondering what this issue might be

    [​IMG]

    Random spots that aren't smooth
     
  18. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    It's hard to tell for sure from the photo but if that usually is because the hot end is very slightly too low. If it is too low then the plastic is bulging out the side of the nozzle and laying down too wide a strip. On the next adjacent pass that wide strip then overlaps the nozzle and the plastic has no where to go but bulge up. Usually this is not a problem and it will be hidden completely by the next layer or two. If there is too much bulging then the nozzle can bump into it and chatter and make a mess. Try tweaking it up a but higher if this is a problem.
     
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  19. Knighrider

    Knighrider New Member

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    Thought that might be the case. Just wanted to confirm. Thanks
     
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