question about "new" R1

2 questions actually.
Why is it still R1 and not R1.1 or something.
Whats different about it other then bed platform ?
Does it have better motors or metric rods ? Is the heat bed any flatter then before ? Because old one is far from flat.
Price went up by $200, i wonder if its worth it.

Thanks !

 

The Y axis is improved, there's auto level switches installed, and blue LED's.

Not sure why they kept the name R1, simplicity I guess. Doesn't help me in troubleshooting.

Just get the upgrade kits.

 

So bed isnt any flatter, Z is still not metric, Extruder is same old garbage. Im not sure i want to spend $200 on that.
I wonder is one of these days they will make robo3d with none moving bed.
Too many problems with moving bed. Tall models get shaken off. If bed is not flat, i cant put anything underneath it to make it better because it moves all the time.

I'll see if i can sell it on ebay and buy something that uses stationary bed.

 

My bed is perfectly flat. Z metric is not required nor necessary. Extruder is a very common J-head Mark VI. No one's asking you to spend $200

The R2 will have a gantry style bed instead of reprap style.

I've never had a tall model shake off, I think you need better adhesion. The bed levelness (different from flatness I hope you know) is fixed easily with the very cheap and simple auto-level mod.


If you want a non-moving bed get a Delta. If you want a moving Bed Z get a gantry style.

Kossel is probably the best bet for a DIY delta http://www.blueeaglelabs.com/

The Mbot is probably the closest in terms of build volume, and comes as a kit for $670 from china, or $999 assembled http://www.mbot3d.com/

http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/3dprinters/

Good luck finding a gantry style, at the same price, with the same build volume.

 

Well my bed was not. Original bed was broken during shipping and support guys (the only time they responded to my problems) sent me another (USED) one.
When i move it back and worth, i see gap increase in the same spot. I tried to put something underneath to get it straight, but its a moving platform, not much will stay underneath pushing it up to make it straight.

DELTA is slow as a snail, so no delta for me.

My model is small at its base and big at the top. When i print it, bed shakes it so much it could brake off.
Sure (as you suggested) i can do better adhesion such as abs juice or super glue or what ever, but then i will have problems removing the model.

Moving bed was a mistake in my opinion.

I contacted support for hobbed bolt many times, they have not responded till this day and they never will. I wont even hope that they would respond to me about the warped bed i got.


Speaking of bed, is there a way to make it more flat ? Its warped for sure.
I tried buying 9x9 tempered glass, but that glass came warped too. They send me a free replacement guarantee that it will be flat, but it came just the same.

What else i can use to get my bed flat. Should i buy different kinds of rails ?

 

What the what? You probably should do some more research into delta printers if that's what you think.

That's the ENTIRE point of adhesion. Hard for you to remove = hard for it to come unstuck. Though I find letting it cool down and a spatula makes it easy to remove.

Nope, moving bed's are done a lot, it's a proven method and works just fine. The R3D is based off the Mendel90 which is a very high regarded printer for reliability.

In my opinion a moving bed will last longer than a gantry style because of creep.

Did you ever actually submit a technical support request or just post in the forum? The technical support forums are never checked and should be removed. They're making their own hobbed bolts and will be for sale soonish.

Though what makes you think yours is even bad?

Well for one thing you don't want tempered glass, you want borosilicate glass. Also you should do the auto bed leveling.

Can you remove your bed and place it on a flat surface then take a picture of the warp?

Submit that here and in a tech support request they help you get a new one or a discount or something if it is truly warped.

 

The 3 arm delta printer i saw on youtube is slow, unless there is another delta print that i didnt know about.
If i wasted $40 for a tempered glass, why would i want to waste even more for a borocilicate one that is most likely to be warped too ?

Anyway, warp is not bad per say, its about 0.2mm off. Enough to make filament glide over the gap and not stick to the bed.
If i was to print at 0.1, it would not work at all. I always print at 0.3 and at 0.3 it just flies over that area.
I dont think i can just make a prop at the bottom to bring it up a bit to compensate because warp area is about 2 inches.
Here is an image of representing the area of warp. Not sure if camera would be able to reflect it unless i take the cover off and take a pic from the side.

 

Delta have a move speed in all direction of 800mm/s and can print at 300mm/s. They're incredibly fast.

The bed warp is unique to you. Borosilicate glass is very strong and robust glass. I assume a new sheet will fix your problem.

The reason why I wanted you to remove the bed is to actually see if the glass is warped or if the mechanical fitment is causing it to flex.

 

Tony, The new R1 and the bed upgrade kit have thicker glass at 4mm. Hopefully it is flatter than the old 3mm bed.

 

Warped glass? Rare at best. More than likely stress from mount points or the belts causing it to flex slightly.

 

Funny, my old 3mm bed is bowed down slightly in the middle and very slightly concave. This bow also seems to change between bed temperature extremes like 25C to 110C. I have to set Z with zero clearance at XY home so it scrapes the bed at the limits. I would think that belt tension would make it bow upward. I hope the 4mm glass and the auto bed leveling mod will eliminate this. I wish the kit would arrive. I ordered it right when Jerry's email came in.

 

Interesting. My 3mm bed was level but after I took it off the bed and remounted in now bows down about 0.5mm across the middle. I've tried loosening the belt tension which improved it slightly but am now in the process of acquiring the components to print a smooth rod y axis. I don't want to have to buy the 4mm bed.

 

The 4mm bed definitely has a nice heft to it compared to the 3mm. I have not checked mine for flatness yet, but will check it out.