Questions about E3D v6 hardware and firmware

I have been running a v6 for years now but I had to switch to a pt100 and 40watt heater (from a 30 watt).

1) I have tested it out yet, and I have done all the steps and uploaded the pt100 arduino code, but does the 40watt need a change in the code?

2) Ive noticed that my prints have wobbly layers, not banding, but shifted layers on occasion that return to normal on the next layer. I believe that the v6 nozzle is not secured enough. Is there a fix to keep it from shifting mid print? I dont believe I had this problem until recently, looking at my old prints.

3) e3d came out with the Revo, which would solve my heat break fan shifting and touching the heatblock while changing nozzles (and my temperature related nozzle changing pains), but the high temp capable ones are all 24v. Is there anyway way to make it compatible with the Robo 3d R1+?

4) Will the bowden tube survive touching the heat break at 350C, or should I look into some higher temp bowden tubes? If so, does anyone know of any?

I appreciate any help. I love my Robo 3d R1+, I'm just not great at coding and electricity.

 

I use a washer with a screw wedged between the aluminum heatsink, and the surrounding plastic housing to help with the wobble. It's not perfect but it does something. You could use Capricorn blue tubing instead of plain white PTFE tubing. I don't think that you need to change any codes for a different wattage heater. I've used various types of heaters over the years without changing the code. The RAMPS board is just power cycling the heater to maintain a specific temperature. You have to change the values in the firmware when you go to a higher temperature since the stock temperature is lower.

 

Thank you, I appreciated the the advice.

I managed to start printing past 300C with the 40w and it sounds like you are right.

I am going to have to look into the washer and screw. Could you go into more detail on how you did it?
I saw that E3D made a v6 heat sink with threads and a nut. I think I would have to mill a compatible heat resistant mounting plate just to use it though. E3D also told me I can make the groove mount more snug by print a new one... but I dont trust any 3d printed thermal plastic to resist the heat.

I think if I ever want to use 24v revo stuff, I am going to need a separate 12v power supply that hooks up to the board with diodes and a logic gate to add 12v + 12v, or something.

Thank you again!

 

I don't use a round heatsink. My hotend uses a rectangle heatsink. The round heatsink doesn't fit with the stock mounting hardware for the parts fan. The OEM design was made to use a hexagon heatsink. The E3D head is connected with an aluminum plate which has an opening for the E3D head. The rest is a wedged fit.

 

Gotchya, Thank you very much.

 

My 50w heater was causing intermittent issues shutting down the printer during a print due to temperature fluctuations. I have a 70w heater now. It heats up faster, and maintains a constant temperature regardless of the printing speed.

 

Interesting, I didnt know the r1+ could handle anything past 40 watts safely.

What brand heatsink are you using?

Do you have the stock extruder still or did you replace that too? Ive been looking at the flexion e3d retrofit kit but I don't think they will ever be back in stock. maybe a bondtech would fit and I can cut myself an aluminum mounting plate. I managed to get flexible filament to work with a bowden tube cut at the hobb bolt like how novice expert did his. It doesnt allow for flexible filament retraction and its it has grip and stripping problems on pet-gf. Maybe it is just pressure on the filament and bowden tube with the stock spring loaded filament lock system (the two bolts, I dont know what is called) not being able to close over the extended bownden tube fully.

 

I have a solid state controller for the hot end, and another one for the heat bed. The RAMPS can't handle it since there's too much current involved between the both of them. My steps are adjusted as well. I was using a Flexion for several years but have upgraded to a spring loaded extruder. A lot of times the Flexion needed fine tuning, and would sometimes get out of alignment causing slipping filament (ruined prints).

 

Thank you

 

So far the 70 watt heater didn't turn out to be good. It heated up very quickly but only worked for a couple of weeks until it completely burned out. This was the first time that I've used a 70 watt heater so I don't know if I installed a defective heater or something else caused the premature failure. I reinstalled the old 50 watt heater which was still good but old.