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Unanswered R1 stops 2 lines into a print?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by noll11, Sep 22, 2015.

  1. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Yet another issue here haha.

    Went to do a print today, only to find that one of my R1's is refusing to print. Once everything heats up, it begins the print, but after about 2 lines of filament, it just stops. the print progress bar continues as normal on mattercontrol until the print "finishes". I've tried a number of objects, all with the same result. and can move the head around through the software like normal when not doing a print.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated; Let me know if there's any more info I can/shoud provide!

    EDIT: more recent issue posed in replies below.
     
    #1 noll11, Sep 22, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    1) Bad USB connection or cable (try another cable, a better one)
    2) Print from SD card and avoid the USB cable issue
    3) MatterControl is falling down (try better software)
     
  3. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Thanks for the response!

    1 - I'll swap out the cable from my other R1 once its print is finished to see if it's a cable problem
    2 - don't have SD slots on my printers.
    3 - yep, planning on moving to something better soon, but haven't had the time yet.
     
  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Unless Robo removed the feature, you have one. It's on the right side of the printer not too far from the opening from the USB port.

    It is, admittedly, easy to miss since there isn't a big "SD CARD GOES HERE" label or anything.

    If your printers are indeed without one, you'll need to complain to actual Robo support about it.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, as @daniel871 pointed out... you do :)

    Just make sure you put the SLICED GCode on the SD card for printing... not an STL.
     
  6. Sonny's Robo3D

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    Clarify - it's a mini SD card slot. Maybe that is why you aren't seeing it
     
  7. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Very delayed response to this; the problem went away on its own before any further troubleshooting, but seems to have come back again now.

    I narrowed it down to a temp drop error using the terminal; basically, once the print starts, the hotend temp drops drastically; roughly 5deg per second. I haven't been able to figure out WHY this happens though; last night I took the printer apart looking for loose connections (Found none) and to ensure that the thermistor was snug in it's place, which It was. all wires, circuit boards, etc, look to be perfectly fine, so I'm confused as to what is causing this.

    basically:
    -start print
    -bed heats up
    -hotend heats up
    -auto-level happens
    -print starts
    -hotend temp drops drastically
    -printer just sits until it thinks the print is done or it's stopped.

    I'm going to check the resistance of the thermistor to ensure that it's 100kohms as it should be, but I don't suppose anyone has any troubleshooting steps beyond that?

    EDIT: I've also tried multiple cables with the same result.
     
    #7 noll11, Jan 10, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
  8. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    print with your computer on mattercontrol and go to the gcode console. while printing check for any errors and also check the temperature of your extruder.
    Then post here what you found out (or at least post the log of the gcode console)
     
  9. Ben Allgor

    Ben Allgor New Member

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    You have the same symptoms that I had after I installed the E3D V6 hot end. The heater worked fine until it started extruding, and then it couldn't keep up. I replaced the heater with a 40watt heater from Amazon, and that fixed it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  10. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Was super busy yesterday and had no time to do any troubleshooting, but just did so now. Swapped the thermistor with one from another robo, but that didn't solve the problem (unless that thermistor was damaged too possibly?).

    @ janot, see video below. print starts, temp drops rapidly, and printer stops. PC I use to control the printer is a not hooked up to internet xp box, so filming the screen was easier then getting recording software on it.



    Also noticed that there was a "temp reset" error after the bed finished heating,but it then went on to start the print as in the video.
    Pic:
    [​IMG]


    @ ben, that's a good point, hadn't considered that it could be the heater itself. I was able to easily extrude 300mm of filament by manually heating>extrude without any temp drops, so I dunno what's up there. If worst comes to worst I may just buy an entire new hotend and then have spare parts for the future.
     
  11. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Found my multimeter and measured the resistance of thermistor; it was 140kohms (room temp was 17ish celcius). I believe they're supposed to be 100k, but vary sometimes, so any thoughts as to whether or not that's a acceptable variance?
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are two reasons for this error that I have seen so far (personal experience).

    1) The Marlin firmware currently ignores the set temp of the hotend (i.e. doesn't actively maintain it) during the auto-leveling process. So, in a cool environment, the temperature of the hotend can drift enough during the 9-point auto-leveling to generate the temp fall error. Once done with that process it goes back to actively maintaining it.

    2) You can have an undersized or weak heater core (the part that heats the extruder). These used to routinely be 40w units, but of late more manufacturers are supplying them with smaller versions (perhaps 40w is overkill in some cases). The standard E3D comes with 25w and I think the Hexagon has a 30w or 35 watt one. (the E3D volcano still uses a 40w unit). The upshot of this is that the extruder has to work a bit harder to maintain the temp in a cooler environment and if by chance your heater core is even a little bit under-rated well... you get the idea.

    I still suggest replacing them with the (cheap) 40 watt versions all over Amazon and/or eBay. Bot if yours is (working mind you) but yours is not :) They are really (really) cheap.

    Here is 10 for $15 -- and you have spares :)

    https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Rep...id=1452712465&sr=8-1&keywords=40w+heater+core

    If you don't use Prime there are slower shipping ones even cheaper...
     
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    and to confirm, once I swapped in a 40w Core the E3D v6 stopped generating this nonsense.

    I still occasionally get it from from my E3D volcano, but I suspect I have a loose thermistor wire/connector in there and I just have not torn it apart to chase it down yet.
     
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  14. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Thanks for the detailed response! auto-level temp drift + not powerful enough heater is looking like the issue here, and would explain why the problem didn't rear it's head until winter.


    The link you posed doesn't ship to Canada, but I found some on the .ca site which should be comparable :
    http://www.amazon.ca/Ceramic-Cartri...=8-4&keywords=40w+3d+printer+heater+cartridge


    In the meantime, is there any way to force the software to keep the temp up while calibrating to see if I can get some prints in? even pausing once it's calibrated, or something?

    Thanks again!
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Those you linked are the same exact thing.
    You can do what I do in the startup GCode:

    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-0.6 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
    M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait



    You edit the [temperature] to whatever setting you need to print at:
    for example:

    M109 S200 ;

    This doesn't 100% cure it, but it certainly stops it most of the time.

    If you are sitting there when it does the autolevel you can manually enter the M999 via your terminal if that error pops up and it will carry on (also a pain though).
     
  16. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Thanks for that! changed it to 240.


    The issue keeps getting weirder and weirder now - went to do a print to test the setting change, and the hot end temp wouldn't go above about 56c when it was heating up the bed. stopped the print, preheated the bed manually, and it heated right up normally. started the print again with hotend at temp already, and as usual, the temp started to drop once the print began.

    I paused the print before the temp reached the point where it'd auto-stop, and the hotend climbed back to 240 as it should; I then resumed the print and it started printing just fine and holding steady at 240. that print is currently going, will update if/when it completes.

    if the hotend isn't powerful enough to cope with the reduced temps (or is just underpowered in general and dying), I don't see why it would start holding to temp all of a sudden after just a mere pause (when going back under load you'd think its temp would fall again, right?). Even less sure as to what the problem is than when I started haha.



    Thoughts?
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If the hotend is not holding temperature there are only a few possible issues that can cause this and I would start with the cheap and easy ones first -- a new heater core and/or a new thermistor :) The heater core may not be 'too weak' it may be faulty.

    It doesn't sound like the thermistor is at fault they usually are more drastic*, but make sure you have tested that it is secure on the hotend and not moving or wiggling around when the printer starts moving since that can affect the readings dramatically (and then the firmware will kill the print). With the hotend at temp try flexing the wiring bundle a bit by moving the build plate around manually and see if the temperature changes.

    If the thermistor is working correctly then I would suspect the heater core given the symptoms you have. Are there other possibilities? Sure, but they are more drastic and a lot less likely. Mind you, it could be bad connections or loose wires to the heater core just as it could have been that for the thermistor so make sure you have traced those back to the RAMPS and checked that they are connected well. There is a connection/disconnect plug on the R1 I think down near the hotend as well so make sure that it is not wiring.

    Heater cores are cheap and even if that ends up not being the ultimate problem... you will have spares. You have to start somewhere.

    Obviously if you are still under warranty you should be having this conversation with a Robo Tech support (phone) person and get a replacement part from them.

    *Usually when the thermistor is the culprit the temperature changes are sudden and usually extreme.
     
  18. noll11

    noll11 New Member

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    Yep, have a pack of thermistors in the mail as of yesterday, and going to order the heaters today.

    the rubber boot that held the thermistor in broke a while back, so I used some high-temp RTV to hold it in, which worked nicely. I opened up the printer to check all boards for loose wires a couple days ago, but found nothing wrong. will try wiggling wires again just to check.


    And yep, no longer under warranty - this robo was purchased in march 2015.

    Thanks again for all the help!

    I'll update this when the heaters and thermistors come in.
     
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