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Solved recalibrating printer. Where am I messing up?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Sean Carson, Apr 13, 2017.

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  1. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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    Somehow, I can never get this thing to print properly on the bed. Once again, it is hovering above the bed. G0 Z0 always goes back the same place, even after changing M206, saving and reloading eeprom. I'm going to list how I do a full calibration of the printer, completely. Please tell me where I am going wrong.

    1. Turn on printer. Remove anything stuck to the bottom of the nozzle.
    2. Send to origin. (G28)
    3. Disable motors.
    4. Slide hotend across center of bed, left to right, and rotate the threaded rods on the sides by hand until the nozzle is as close to the bed as possible without touching. Slide the nozzle across and readjust. Try to get it as even as possible before moving on. Go back and forth several times as adjusting on one end will change the other side too. Eventually, the adjustments will even out.
    5. Go to the terminal and send G29 S1. When the hotend moves to the front left, slip a piece of receipt paper under it. Lower the hotend until it touches the paper. Lift the hotend by 0.1 until you can move the receipt paper back and forth under the hotend without resistance. Do not let your hand rest on the bed. Any weight on the bed will throw this off.
    6. Send G29 S2 and repeat probing with receipt paper for all remaining points.
    7. When finished probing, the nozzle will home itself again. Let it home without any receipt paper on under it.
    8. Send M500 to save the mesh to EEPROM. Send M501 to read back the EEPROM. Look at the output and see if anything looks off.
    9. Try printing. Remember, leave NO offsets in your gcode. We are trying to set those in firmware.

    10. If the hotend is too far or too close to the bed, stop the print, remove anything from the bed and clean off the tip of the nozzle. Send G28 to home the hotend. Put receipt paper (or regular copy paper if you want a slightly larger gap) under the nozzle. Send G0 Z0. Adjust the position on the Z axis by 0.1 increments. Count as you raise or lower.
    11. Put the hotend as close to the bed as possible that allows you to move the paper underneath with no resistance. Send M206 Z(the number you counted out in step 10). If you need the hotend to PULL AWAY from the bed, Z must be negative (ex: M206 Z-0.3). If you need the hotend to PUSH CLOSER to the bed, Z must be positive (ex: M206 Z0.3)
    12. Send M500 to commit changes to EEPROM. Send M501 to read them back. Look for anything odd.

    This is how I have been leveling it. Where am I messing up so badly that ABS globs onto the hotend rather than grabbing hot buildtak?
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Curious, why are you using M206 at all?
    I take it you don't have an LCD controller and you are doing it all from a terminal?

    If you are using MESH leveling and you need to offset, the the proper command is G29 S4 Zn.nn, If you are trying to change a single value in the MESH you do that with a G29 S3 Xn Yn Zn.nn. Offsets in Marlin are universal types of adjustments. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29_Manual_Bed_Leveling_in_Marlin
     
  3. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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    Thank you! That fixed it. I was using M206 because that's just what I read to use.
     
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