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Replacing thermistor, heater and heatblock

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by tiagomaricate, Jul 21, 2020.

  1. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    Does anybody know what are the specs of thermistor, heater, and heat block?

    I'm doing general maintenance (the old owner was not so careful) and I'm thinking to replace or even upgrade/change these parts.

    Also, I'd like to receive some tips to keep the hotend clean. I just see some silicon caps but not sure if resists at high temperature.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Thermistor is Marlin type 1 for hexagon extruder.
    Heater core is standard and those come in sizes from 25w->40w stock was a 30w, but larger wattage will not hurt anything. The thermistor is a custom one for the Robo style hotend. You can buy a generic Hexagon and swap it in (24v version for the R2). You can try getting the thermistor from PartsBuilt.com -- they source the Robo replacement parts now.

    The heater block is part of the hexagon hotend and not available outside of buying a new hotend. The Hexagon does not have assembly parts available other than the heater core.

    If you want a hotend that can have all parts easily sourced you would need to consider upgrading to something like an E3D -- which requires modification of the extruder chassis on the R2/C2
     
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  3. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    What is the voltage from the thermistor? Also 24V?
    Basically, if I found something that meets the heigh/length and fits, it works?
    I found a topic here about the E3D modification...
     
  4. wuidling

    wuidling Member

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    Thermistor & Heater are 24V .
    If the length is nearly the original you can use them.


    Here are some things i have built in.
    (German Distributor)

    Heater
    For faster heating you can choose a 40W Heater..

    Thermistor
    You can drill the hole a little bit deeper (Original Hotend)
    I prefer the 3950 NTC because its the standard in 3D printing.

    Copperhead Hotend

    Using a E3D Hotend/Copperhead is a liitle bit complex.

    Check the JST Thread for the connectors.
    Mark your connectors before removing it because its a little bit tricky to get them back.in the correct side.

    Not sure if this Heating Block fits.

    ....or you can buy like Mark said the Original Parts.

    Regards

    Exuse my school english.
     

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    #4 wuidling, Jul 21, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The thermistors are generally not voltage specific, but the heater core is.
    You would not want to run a 12v core at 24v :) It would likely not work for very long.

    You can run them lower -- I am using a 24v core at 19v on the C2 and that is fine. It takes slightly longer to get to stable temperature than the stock one, but it works.
     
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  6. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    Amazing work!!
     
  7. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    No adaptation?!?!
     
  8. Roberto Torres

    Roberto Torres New Member

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    Great! can you share some info on how did you upgraded to Copperhead ????
     
  9. wuidling

    wuidling Member

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    This is the first step to change the complete head. A first simple try and not complete. But it works fine on the R2. Will give you more information next week.

    Regards

    Exuse My School English
     
    #9 wuidling, Jul 21, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2020
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  10. wuidling

    wuidling Member

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    Here are some things that i hope will help you.
    (in the future ?)

    1.
    I brought my fan shroud down with something like this.
    (i think the better way is to use springs for adjustment instead of the M3)

    2.
    Then disassemble the Head.

    (Titan Extruder ?)

    3.
    Drill the filament hole with a 7mm drill. Be careful and exact.
    2-3 mm are enough but unfortunately i wasn't cautious.
    But it works with a complete 7mm hole.

    (7mm plain bearing in the hole or designing something ?)

    4.
    Grind off the top of Heat Sink until it fits in the original alu plate.

    5.
    Follow the copperhead instructions and dont forget the PFTE !

    6.
    Use the original Heater and Thermistor or make your own parts.

    8.
    Check if all the connectors are in the correct place.and the hotend is vertical from every side..
    (designing a new plate ?)

    7.
    Dont use the Calibration Wizard and delete the auto bed leveling codes in starting before print job !


    Please excuse my school english.

    Regards
     

    Attached Files:

    #10 wuidling, Jul 28, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2020
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably the single best thing you can do :)
     
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