Robo 1.0.1 and more

There have been many proposed mods and upgrades, some have been performed for those who have received the printer already. I was interested in having people list the mod they were interested in performing, expected complexity in mod, and result/why the mod? Did you find that the hobbled bolt that is provided slips too much? Has adding a fan to cool greatly reduced part warping/cracking? This isn't just for me but for many others who will be interested in getting the most bang for the buck.

 

I agree NickW that a list of upgrades and mods would be a nice addition to the forum since most of the upgrades and mods are somewhat scattered through the forum.

I currently have not received my Robo3D yet, so I have not been able to personally see the results of my planned mods.

As of yet my plans for mods and upgrading include the following:

Viki LCD

- To allow printing from a microSD card as well as control of the printer without a computer connection.

Helios 200 Heat Bed, Independent 12V 13 amp power supply for heat bed, Solid State Relay to allow control of the heat bed through Ramps (similar to what CAMBO3D did here), Aluminum spreader, and Borosilicate glass

- I got the PLA version of the Robo3D and realized after the fact that I would want to be able to print with ABS since the Fillatruder that I supported through kickstarter seems to work best when extruding ABS filament. I have also found through my research that PLA can benefit from having a heated bed as well.

All metal hot end (probably the ED3 all metal hot end)

-I want to be able to try printing with Nylon (which I will be using my Filastruder to make Nylon filament out of left over Nylon powder from Shapeways) and possibly some other filaments which require higher print temperatures than the Robo3D hot end can support.

The Z height adjustment mod talked about here.

-Allows better fine tuning of Z axis endstop

Hobbed bolt with recess (as seen here)

-Reduces the possibility of filament becoming off-center which can cause jamming, failed prints, and reduced print quality.

These are my planned mods to date, but I am open to questions and suggestions.

 

I got my Robo3D a three days ago and have been trying with abs but I'm struggling to get it to stay stuck to the bed I have added Kapton tape I have already added a screen it's a slightly different physical design (essentially the same thing) to the reprapdiscounts xxl but I should have drawn up a case/mount for it tomorrow which I'll print and once finished I'll upload to thingyverse but I have ordered a new hobbed bolt and a solid state relay for the heated bed as I have noticed once or twice the heated bed temp dropping all the way down to 30 degrees. I have ordered the springs for Tesseracts bed levelling mod and I have the z-axis stabilisers to print out. Tomorrow I should have some PLA arriving so hopefully I'll have more luck and make some of the mod parts Oh and I have several spool holders that sit on top of the printer.

So in a list -

Kapton Tape
Bed Levelling mod
Z-Axis Stabilisers
XXL Screen (with SD card reader freeing up my gaming pc again)
Hobbed Bolt
Solid State Relay for the heatbed (changed my mind going to change the mosfet and polyswitch instead).
Spool Holder(s)
Any I've made some mini spot lights with ultra bright LED's to mount inside the printer to light it up a bit

And maybe later if I think I need it the all metal hotend

Even though I've not managed to complete a print in my first couple of days I am loving the tinkering and am really impressed by the quality of the (incomplete got 2/3 the way through the z-axis brackets when they came unstuck) prints I have done so far.

Brian

 

Brian
As for board overheats - I printed out the adaptor and mounted the 40mm fan and not cutting out anymore. Will hold 90c for hours. I raised the cutting out with robo support and they sent me a fan. I'd do this before any other mods.
http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...t-heat-bed-cutting-out.1299/page-3#post-12186


As for getting stuff to stick 95% about the right height. I use glue stick straight on glass, 70 for PLA , 90 for abs all good. I use Uhu in the yellow tube but will be trying some others over time. Very good success, I generally watch for about a minute or two then have the confidence to walk away.

 

I did add some LEDs as well....

 

I think a good lighting system to see what is happening would really help. I suggest a few bright LEDs around the hot end.


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