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Solved Robo 3D R1+ printing thin and stringy and too high.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by XxGingerSharkxX, Jun 10, 2019.

  1. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    Before going into the problem. Here is what I have and using with changes after original purchase from pawn shop.


    -Robo 3D R1+

    -stock hot end

    -0.4mm nozzle (I think, too much burned on filament to tell)

    -firmware V3 (latest as of 06/10/2019. M/D/Y)

    -Hatchbox PETG 1.75mm white filament

    -slicer is Mattercontrol for R1



    Temps used to print

    -extruded 250c

    -bed 90c


    First print failed due to unbalanced x-axis lifting to the left. Was fixed with a level and second print was fine. Third print failed due to wet filament and tangle in spool. Was set in dehydrator for 2hrs at 149F.


    While that was drying. I installed RepRap Full graphics display. Used latest Frimware from Robo site and Display frimware, version 18.1. Powered on and was functioning fine.


    Filament finished drying and started small print. Failed after rafter was finished and started to print too high for first level. Stopped it and recalibrated level. Failed again after raft.


    Looked for where to fix z offset in e prom in setting by setting Home z to -.82. Closer now but still producing stingy thin filament. So


    Look online on the forums and may have been a clog in the nozzle. So replaced it with another 0.4mm nozzle. Still thin strings. Read that it may have been a backup or jam in the hot end. So I removed the new nozzle and hot end. I feed filament through it once cooled by hand. The filament wasn’t coming through the other end.


    Tried once more and same results as before. Z-offset is to high at the start and filament is this stingy and acting like it’s jammed (I think). But failed this time due to a drop in temp. The print just stopped. I believe the hot end died and I ordered a new one. E3Dv6 hotend.


    If anyone knows what is happening, please help. As of now here is what I have now.


    Hardware

    -Robo 3D R1+ with RepRap Full Graphics Display

    *latest R1+ frimware as of 06/10/2019

    *RepRap FGD u8glib frimware version 18.1

    -0.4mm nozzle

    -dead stock hot end (probably)

    -dry Hatchbox PETG 1.75mm Filament white


    Software

    -windows10

    -Mattercontrol from Robo (latest version and clean install)
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If this is a stock R1+ then you need the new quick release plate for the E3D or it will be loose in the carriage.
    This is the part you wanted to print first (and this is discussed in the E3D upgrade thread).

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3167694

    The E3D has a wider "neck" than the Hexagon so the old plate will not hold it firmly in place. You may be able to pad the hotend with some tape around the neck enough to hold it steady and print the plate... then swap it :)
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As for the Z offset ... the correct way to do that with respect to the Robo Autoleveling is in the FAQ link (link provided to that article -- click FAQ), if you have a global Z offset in the slicer that is entirely different and I can't speak to that.
     
  4. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    Okay when I’m done with work I’ll head home and try it. I just wonder why the filament is all stringy now when extruded? I’ll send a pic when I can to show you


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That sounds like one of:
    1) partial clog of nozzle or hotend throat
    2) too hot extrusion*

    *this can be caused by the thermsitor reading incorrectly (as in reading too low) which then causes you to print too hot. Not as likely, but still needs to be said
     
  6. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    Well I think that’s it. The last print just stopped after it said the temp dropped and I may have my extruded temp too high. What do you recommend for extruding temp for PETG from Hatch box. One source i found online said to go with 260c for PETG. The spool listed said 220-250c. Think I over did the temp? This is my first time using a 3D printer.


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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sorry, can't help you -- I don't use PETG (I am more a fan of Nylon and other materials). Someone else can chime in on that.

    Never trust "an online source" , trust what you tested. Use a temperature tower to test and find the best temperature for any filament type you are learning. Eventually something as quick and easy as a deprime test object is good enough for you to fine-tune the temperatures for a given spool.

    Filament is not like many consumer products and there is no exact "number" for temperature that will be perfect for every printer or environment (your room temperature and humidity matter too). I have a number written on every spool that tells me what it last printed at and if it has been a while I run a deprime to sanity check that it has not changed. I keep the temperature and humidity in the workshop pretty well controlled with A/C and dehumidifier to help with print consistency.

    Examples here: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=petg+temperature+tower&dwh=195cfe83da5dd1f

    Read the instructions for the one you choose to use so you can see what needs to be done to print it
     
  8. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    Thank you so much for you help. I already ordered the new hot end. But I think I may be able to unclog the cool end to get filament through and get a different nozzle on and chuck the one I have now. Will let you know about the next print.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure, good luck.
     
  10. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    Alright I was able to clean of the hot end. And I found the gcode and entered it in.[​IMG]

    But it is still printing too high.
    [​IMG]

    I also uninstalled Mattercontrol and reinstalled it. As well as fresh download of the printers firmware (version 3_06 2015) am I messing something up of something?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  11. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    I think I was using the wrong firmware. I just uploaded ROBO3DR1PLUSV2 using Ardunio 1.0.6


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  12. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    YES YES YES YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS! That was the problem this whole time. I was using the completely wrong firmware. God I feel like an idiot.


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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Cool, that is an evil problem since only you can know exactly what you uploaded on this printer :)
    Glad you got it sorted.

    Don't update it again (seriously).... :)
     
  14. XxGingerSharkxX

    XxGingerSharkxX New Member

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    I have my Full Graphic Display running on it and it is printing correctly. I am never messing its code again. In less I want to make a filament preset for PETG L. That you do much for your help. And I got that E3Dv6 hotend bracket made. Thanks for the link to the file.


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