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Unresolved Spiderweb like strings

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by DjAnnexAlpha, Oct 15, 2015.

  1. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    I don't know why it has taken me so long to post a thread on this but. The issue I am experiencing with my printer is that I get these thin spiderweb like strings when the head moves from one direction to another. Thoughts?
     
  2. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    3 things to do:

    -add a tiny bit of retraction (like 0.2 or 0.5 mm)
    -add a little bit of Z lift (no need to go overkill, less that 1mm is plenty enough)
    -lower your extrusion temperature by five degres Celsius.

    once you did all of this (in the slicer setting) try and print this
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15087

    and upload a photo of the final result
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Boom!
    @janot928 nailed it

    For PLA/ABS that is typically a sign of too hot extrusion, but that is not universal for all filament types (some nylons do that if they are too cold). Retraction can help, but do not overdo it.
     
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  4. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    @janot928 @mark tomlinson Awesome advice! I just switched to using Cura and loading the g-code to my octopi. My first test print was a chinese good luck cat and it had a bit of the spider web on the very top of it and between the arms. The last print I used matter control and I printed a rose bud and there was a ton of spiderweb. The pic below is what I am talking about. I will try and modify the settings in cura and trying printing the linked model. Ill post a photo of that as well.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is almost certainly just too hot extrusion.
    For fun sometime do this test...
    Center the hotend and raise it 100mm
    Set the temp to where you normally extrude at.
    Extrude 10mm
    Lower the temp 5 degrees, wait a few minutes and repeat.

    See just how much hotter than you need to be that you are actually printing at.
    :)

    In the right temp range the PLA/ABS will extrude as a clean line of filament and hang DOWN.
    It will not curl back up to the hotend (that means it is too hot). Find the point where it just stops curling up and you are there.
     
  6. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    Well my print head is jammed. I turn the gears but nothing comes out...how to fix...youtube...
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  8. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    Thanks for that but I was already fixing it when you posted that I have read it but I haven't had a need for an oiler since day 1. Because of this I will be looking an E3D V6. Not sure if I have to go with the Bowden or Direct. Anyway, I fixed the problem and I am not test printing the retraction model. Will post results once I am done testing and configuring.
     
  9. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    @janot928 @mark tomlinson first test print. I forgot that I had set rafts and supports in Cuba but this is the result with the temp lowered from 210 to 195. I am printing with the FDA approved filament from makergeeks.com[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    Well this is what happened when it printed without rafts or supports enabled.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. DjAnnexAlpha

    DjAnnexAlpha Member

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    Well print #3. Printer got super loud and it seems it has missed a few layers. I should mention that I am using the OEM spool holder. Troubleshooting is frustrating haha
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    at least you printer is working ^^'
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I ran for over a year without needing one. Then swapped to a new nozzle that absolutely needed one--totally clogging.
    Filament changes could cause you to need one as well. If it is PLA and sticking/clogging that is what you need to try (the seasoning at least).

    If it is not sticking/clogging then do not worry about it :)
     
  14. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Looks like bad bed adhesion for starters, which can ruin the rest of the print if the nozzle is collecting extruded filament. Also looks too hot like your layers aren't cooling adequetly before the next one is applied Try adjusting your layer speed and/or minimum speed for cooling.

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  15. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    It looks like you are printig PETG Filament...?
    For best adhesion you should heat the print bed to approximate 90 degree celsius and also use hairspray on the glas bed.
    As long the print bed is heated, it will be almost impossible to remove the part if the 1st layer was printed well... and no raft needed at all.
    To improve the print quality of your prints you should also modify the part cooling with two fans and ducts - this will improve the bridging and overhang quality, as well reduce stringing.

    See also my fan/fan duct mods in combination with a E3D V6 Hotend (Robo3D, first generation)...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    My 37hr. print...printing PETG...:

     
    #15 lemuba, Oct 19, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2015
    janot928 likes this.
  16. c. West

    c. West Member

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    PETG is awesome stuff once it's dialed. That's my go to at this point.

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  17. 3D Printer Man

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    Make sure they are no clogs, my friend found that when the clog leaks it makes strings
     

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