1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Squeaky bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by mark tomlinson, Oct 26, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Started getting Y motion squeak today. Not coming from X at all it seems to be limited to the bed motion. Will pop the bed off tomorrow and see it something is loose/needing lubrication. It will be printing late and didn't want to abort that job for this since it did not seem to be affecting the print.

    Just thought I would see if this is a known thing.
     
    #1 mark tomlinson, Oct 26, 2013
  2. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    the y axis drive is not all that much motor and two bearings and the rails I put white grease on mine just to make sure they had good lubrication but they were not making noise and while you have the white lithium grease out give the thread rod so on the z axis a good shot and spread it over the rod they will make noise fairly soon
     
    #2 tesseract, Oct 26, 2013
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    It was a loose drive belt (the sprocket on the motor) for the Y axis. So the belt was not tight and was not (always) turning. that was causing the squeak.

    Not as bad effects overall as the X drive pulley being loose, but by the time it finished the last 50 layers or so were showing the effects.

    Need to sanity check all of the pulleys.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Oct 27, 2013
  4. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    so the pulley on the y axis WAS ACTUALLY loose
     
    #4 tesseract, Oct 27, 2013
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Yes, the set screw was backed almost totally out and the sprocket would spin. It was throwing off the print layers at the end (probably had worked loose enough by then).
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Oct 27, 2013
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    P.S. and I grabbed some lithium grease as well, thanks for the advice.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Oct 27, 2013
  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    533
    did you happen to notice if teh flat area on teh motor spindle was well defined or not
     
    #7 tesseract, Oct 27, 2013
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Yes, it was visible and well defined. The set screw was loose enough to move by hand.
    It no longer is :) and there is locktite on it too. Once I tightened it I doubt it would have come back off easily, but I am taking no chances.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Oct 27, 2013
    3 people like this.
  9. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    38
    Did you use green, purple, blue, or (hopefully not) red loctite? Liquid or stick?

    I'm a BIG fan of blue in the stick variant... and tend to stay as far away from liquid red as possible unless it's ABSOLUTELY required... like for conrod endcaps... basically something I want almost welded and don't have a problem taking a torch to it to heat it up enough to break the grip of the loctite.

    You could use the green liquid, just have to be REAL careful to not let it wick into anything resembling a shaft or a bearing or you'll junk it. It's SO liquid it'll suck into the SMALLEST of gaps via capillary action. That's great for screws when they are attaching to a shaft so long as you don't use too much and let it dry before reassembly!
     
    #9 Das Wookie, Oct 27, 2013
  10. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    38
    I've been known to use a SMALL drop of Cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) as well time and again... so long as it's not a high vibration environment it holds pretty well. Heck, it even holds up reasonably well in vibration (like a motorcycle) as long as you only expect it to hold for like 4-6 months between disassembly and isn't being regularly exposed to solvents...
     
    #10 Das Wookie, Oct 27, 2013
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    We used Crazy Glue on the Z axis threaded rod since it was already tight as it could be on the allen screws and still spinning free. No problems since. The thread-lock was blue on the Y and X since I do not want to need to mess with those again. Good ol' blue loctite in the (tiny) squeeze bottle. ALthough RED was tempting for the Y axis issues simply because it is a pain to dig down there to those parts.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Oct 27, 2013
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Heh, at this stage (a week into it) we have already had to deal with X Y and Z issues :) but hopefully not again any time soon.
     
    #12 mark tomlinson, Oct 27, 2013
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page