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Ultimate Copper is your friend

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Thor, Dec 22, 2013.

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  1. Thor

    Thor Member

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    I had to replace my PTFE tube in the extruder... after doing that, I tried to run the printer without any tape holding the thermistor in.... it worked, but the hotend had a hard time maintaining temperature when the fan was on.

    I put Mega Copper (versa Chcm @ AutoZone) as a layer (~1/8 thick, but was just applied by hand to the sides and kept away from the bottom) around the hotend:
    1. It holds everything together, and it looks nicer than the Kapto tape
    2. It heats up a bit faster
    3. Temperature regulation is now rock-solid.
    This is with only a 13 hr cure (I couldn't wait!).

    I also recommend tightening the belts to "twang" tightness... it has made an incredible difference in surface finish. Note: This will change your calibration.
     
  2. Thor

    Thor Member

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    Err... Belt tension changes or Z calibration... I threw my nuts the first time after tensioning...
     
  3. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    What does throwing your nuts mean?


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  4. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    Peter, movement of the Z axis is done using the two threaded vertical rods. There are two nuts on these rods and the nuts fit into specific channels on the plastic end pieces the threaded rods go into.

    When you throw the nuts, what happens is during lowering of the Z axis, as the two threaded rods rotate, these nuts fall out of the channel. Many times it happens because the bed isn't quite level, you don't have the height set correctly, and the hot-end hits the bed before the Z axis stop switch is activated, thus the rods continue rotating and the nuts get pulled out and thrown.

    The nuts are held there by gravity only and this is actually on purpose. The weight of the X bracket and the shape of the hole for these nuts should keep things in place as long as things are calibrated correctly. You do not want to glue these nuts in place (as was suggested by someone before) since in the event of a Z axis stop switch failure, if the threaded rods continued rotating and these nuts were glued in place, you would shatter the glass bed as the hot-end would be forced into it.
     
  5. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    Good to know. Thanks

    Is there way to make the bed level beginning using a level frame and bed combo? Is this the problem.with the design that initially the entire structure is not rigid and level?




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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You could get ball park with a level but you probably would not get exact.

    I use the calibration prints (large, circular, 2 layers tall) to make sure it is nailed to the extents of the bed.

    You can also print a perimeter and eyeball that as it is printing to make sure it is dead on.
     
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