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Upgrading the Robo C2 with dual filament spools - Instructions

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by OutsourcedGuru, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    I've created a repository with step-by-step instructions for printing a stand-alone dual-spool filament holder. It features four ball bearings, glides smoothly, has a quick-release feature, has a more intuitive filament path to the run-out sensor block and even protects against cross-over and filament sticking (typical of Shaxon carbon fiber, for example, and evidenced by a drawn-up spool*). I've used this technique for three months now and haven't seen a single job outage related to cross-over.

    DSC_0063_2.jpg

    There is a kilogram version and a half-kilogram option as well. I will later incorporate a dry box for this since I'll be printing with PVA.

    * In one case, it is guessed that this condition led to a blown fuse on the Robo board.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  2. Frank van Gilluwe

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    Cool project! Great write up. What resolution did you use for the parts and do you know how long it took to print off the parts for the dual 1 kg version?
     
  3. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    It works really well and I'm pleased with the way both of them turned out.

    Pretty sure I used the lowest/fastest Robo-specific profile for this one. If you're happy with your adhesion (BuildTak & good z-offset) then you could use the gcode provided; most of these print straight to the print bed without any help whatsoever. If you have adhesion problems and you only get success with rafting then you'd likely want to slice your own on this. Let me know and I can provide some guidance on Cura tweaks to get you successful on that.

    Also, if you slice yourself, make sure that the parts are oriented in the same way I've done this. The Assembly parts have the narrow side down (this is crucial). The Mid-shims need support. The Center Axis Covers are a little difficult to remove, just take your time and use a razor or sharp knife but don't hack at it. Everything takes into account the Z-oriented hole inaccuracy on the C2—I've designed for #6-32 for X- and Y-oriented holes and #8-32 for Z-oriented and yet it magically works with the same #6-32 bolts throughout.

    RC_DualSpool-4of4(PrintTwiceKG).gcode = 2:15 x 2 = 4:30
    RC_DualSpool-3of4(PrintTwiceKG).gcode = 2:55 x 2 = 5:50
    RC_DualSpool-1of4(PrintTwice).gcode = 2:20 x 2 = 4:40
    RC_DualSpool-2of4(PrintOnceKG).gcode ~ 12:00 x 1 = 12:00
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    about 27 hours

    If you want to print this let me know. I can edit the Assembly part to add back in the hex cap cutouts on the bottom which somehow didn't make it into the STL on the last revision for that. In my case, I'm just using furniture feet so it's not a big problem. The last version was flush and looks nicer, to be honest. Without the cutout, you'd want four bolts there which are 2mm longer in length to compensate.

    Oh, and assembling together the two Under-brackets in each case is trickier than it should be. You basically want to twist the first two brackets together (with the bolt inside) until it's almost fully-seated. Then start the second bolt and drive it with a naked hex key. (Basically, remove your hex key from one of those Swiss Army knife style of holders to give you enough access to seat the second bolt.) I hope that makes sense. Let me know otherwise.
     

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