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Answered Z Axis Triggered Issue

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by AntiReality, Jan 9, 2019.

  1. AntiReality

    AntiReality New Member

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    After a hiatus of frustation involving the printer. I replaced the heated bed with a V2 and ordered some limit switches to replace the existing z axis ones. As its need to go vertical is unwavering. Having replaced both limit switches on the z axis and verifying that they are depressed by the carriage. I am still getting vertical movement when starting a print and trying to Home.

    M119 reports z to be triggered.
    I moved each side of the carriage one at a time, lifting it off the limit switch and verifying the M119 as saying triggered, repeated for both sides.
    Lifting the entire carriage, verifying that neither of the switches are depressed still gives me a triggered state for the z axis.

    1) Bad connection to switches
    2) Bad connection to RAMPS board
    3) Damaged wires.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The only thing I would add to that list is possibly a faulty switch that sometimes mis-reports as triggered when it is not.
    Just FYI: triggered on the Z means open-circuit :)
     
  3. AntiReality

    AntiReality New Member

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    Driving me nutty, as I had near perfect first layers with Marlin 1.1.7 late last year then it panicked. Reverted back to R1+ V2 firmware, just to make sure something hadn't gone wonky. Figured replacing the switches would resolve the problem. Switched those out today and short of having bad replacement switches as well all I can think of is that the crimped connectors are bad, theres a bad section in one of the wires or a bad connection to ramps.
    Are there any reliable replacement wire sets or harnesses that you recommend?
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I agree and two of those are pretty easy to sort out. You can redo the crimp connectors and sanity check the RAMPS connections. The bad wire is still a possibility (and more evil).
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    there are no replacement harnesses that I am aware of. We redid the harness (or much of it) using 22 gauge wire ourselves on one of the units. Just sucks because you have to unwind that wrap around the wire bundle if you want to run new wires through it... I would try new wires and connectors as a test with them NOT run through the bundle physically (just maybe taped in place along the outside) and if that test removes the issue then worry about getting the new wires into the bundle.
     
  6. AntiReality

    AntiReality New Member

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    The crimp connectors fit snugly on the terminals, wire doesn't appear to be corroded in the crimped sections. Perhaps later ill flip the machine over, check the ramps connection then maybe strip off those connectors. Have an automotive stereo kit in the closet, see if I have a good set of crimp connectors and reterminate the wires. Wish they had went with sleeved cables for the side harnesses instead of the wire looms. Thanks for the heads up on the wire gauge in case I have to rerun them.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, that loom is cute, but a pain to work with :)
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is not a lot of current in those wires (other than the ones for the heater cartridge) so anything 18-22 gauge is close enough.
     

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