Answered *READ ME* My ROBO doesn't auto level correctly!? FAQ

@defendermd my bed magnets are seated, and i dont understand when you say did i run an m119, when i type that into the console i just get unknown command.

i just want to thank you guys already for the help, i know its not easy trying to explain to a new guy things to try when they dont even know what their doing... lol

also that is a nice print!

 

send m119 command to your robo, then change the configuration (lift a switch) and send it again, you should see a change in reported config. If not, your wiring is bad. Start simple. Fighting broken hardware with software is a pain in the ass.

 

well. after 4 days of messing with this printer, and messing with the program, and messing with eveything, i am happy to say that im FINALLY getting sharp and solid prints. so solid that i literally have to scrape them off the bed! with no hair spray no glue, no tape just the heated bed.

 

whudja do? or is it embarrassing?

 

First off i would like to say thanks to @defendermd @mark tomlinson and thanks to the guys and gals in the Robo3D owners group on Facebook for all the guidance!

All i did was fiddle with it, adjusting the x and the z, and the Z offset.

i lowered the z axis until the switches werent touching any more, than i slipped a piece of paper between the switch and the stop. adjusted both of them to be exactly the same, and than homed the z axis, which again threw out my z offset.

once i got the switches spot on, i went back into matter control and used my z offset (set in the gcode) of -0.06 and did a print. When i did that print i noticed that on the first layer it was too far from the bed, so i adjusted it down so that it was touching bed, (stepping it down from -0.60,-0.55,-0.50) and was able to get the print head to lay down some pla. how ever using the bed leveling calibration blocks (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053) it prints the squares 2 rows wide. it would seem to print 3 of the sides fine, but the right side z axis would print 2 distinct visible lines, lettting me know that i had to further adjust my right side axis down a tiny bit so that i could get both of those lines to weld into one solid line.

so i adjusted that line and i ended up with a final z axis offset of -0.45 which gave me a very solidly stuck to the bed part that was very well extruded. i was very happy.

so than i decided to just take the gcode directly out of matter control, and plug it into Simplify 3d, into the scripting tab, and ran a first layer print. well i noticed that it was printing like the nozzle was pressed against the bed. so i had to re adjust the z offset up which when i dialed it in came to M565 Z-0.68. once i had that dialed in it was printing beautifully. (well first layer that is).

i just finished my first print with Simplify, and i am happy with the result. with the exception of one thing. i am adjusting the amount of layers on the top and the bottom, to give it more of a polished look.

but considering that it was set to only print 3 layers. im quite surprised on the coverage. matter control needed a minimum of 5 just to fill in that amount.

Also one final note, this was still just on the heated bed, no glue or hair spray or tape needed so far. i am sure that will change for bigger prints. but so far i am happy.

when the next print finishes i will post a picture.

i am thinking of doing a less wordy write up to help people who are trying to get their printers going with simplify.

here is the top side


and what was VERY surprising was the bottom side its as smooth as glass, and just as shiny ( you can see the reflection of my monitor in the axe

 

yea.. that's the standard 3/3/3 by the look. I go much thicker on all 3... generally speaking.

I do little to no infill and a 2+ mm perimeter on things that aren't flat on the top.

 

Let me first start off by saying that the information that has been provided here is invaluable, and I wouldn't be so foolish as to discount it, so thanks to those that have written/provided it.

I'll admit, I am a brand new user and a babe in the woods, and I've done as much research prep as I can, but some of the more technical things elude me, so apologies if this has already been dealt with

Any time I attempt a print, I run into an issue where when the printer does the 9 point level check, it deliberately moves nearly halfway up the z-axis, and then moves up a slight bit at each point. From there it prints in the center several inches above the bed. Does this have to do with the z-axis switches? If so, then apparently I am misunderstanding what's to be done to adjust them. Am I supposed to be lowering the axis manually such that it touches the bed? Further? This happens consistently despite changing settings between attempts.

If I can get it to print ON the bed, I think it should print just fine.

 

Your leveling switches arent working. Theyre either oriented wrong or unplugged.

 

Now, as I understand it, to be working they need to both click at the same time? I may have found a solution, but it's late and my housemates are asleep so I'll save it for tomorrow.

As best I could tell, the nut holding the right side switch on was so high the z-axis physically couldn't drop down to touch the switch. I've flipped their orientation around so it makes contact but now it seems the left is the culprit. I'll have to tinker with it some more, but I am fairly certain it's plugged in. I assume it would be wise to check all the leads underneath regardless.

On a side note, the left threaded rod makes a loud high pitched grinding when going down, but not up. Is this common/a simple fix, or something better taken up by the manufacturer?

 

Soso it sounds like a couple things could be happening your xaxis sounds by your description to be cocked if that's the case you need to level it if it isn't then you may be getting binding. In sure the nuts are positioned correctly as in the set of videos also ensure you do not have excess friction

 

Not bad for my iPhone taking dictation while I drive

 

Probably need to lubricate the threaded rods with something like white lithium spray

 

One oil that works really well his gun lubricant it is noncorrosive clean and has additives that make it excellent for this procedure

 

For reference, here is what I mean when I said the thing about the nuts.

Now, you'll have to forgive my terrible forum use because I did save these pictures right side up.
As you can see on the left nut there's a bit of it poking out the bottom, and if I squeeze the two pieces together you can hear the switch click. On the right, no portion of the nut extends out the bottom, and as a result, even with a goodly amount of tension, the two pieces never come close enough to make the switch click.

Am I correct in assuming I could just loosen the screw clamping it around the nut and slide it up ever so slightly? Would that help?

 

Level out the x axis by sliding the carriage a papers width back and forth. Raise the z axis up and loosen the screw holding the autolevel switch. You may need to lift the carriage and twist the nut to access the screw.

With the holder loose reseat the z axis and raise it up till it triggers against the idler. Then re tighten everything

 

I think his printer may be upside down... It won't work well like that

Sounds like Mike K's got it though.

 

Many thanks gentlemen! That appears to have done the trick! Now, on to the next roadblock, for more learning!

 

Does anyone find that auto level is not needed, and it's better to do it manually?

 

You cannot do it manually there are no adjusters