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Answered *READ ME* My ROBO doesn't auto level correctly!? FAQ

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Ben R, Feb 24, 2015.

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  1. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    Here is the result of M119:

    -echo: External Reset
    <-Marlin1.0.0
    <-echo: Last Updated: Oct 11 2014 15:33:46 | Author: (RoBo 3D, R1 Single Extruder)
    <-Compiled: Oct 11 2014
    <-echo: Free Memory: 3757 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
    <-echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
    <-echo:Steps per unit:
    <-echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z2267.72 E723.38
    <-echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
    <-echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00
    <-echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
    <-echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
    <-echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
    <-echo: M204 S1300.00 T3000.00
    <-echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
    <-echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X17.00 Z0.40 E5.00
    <-echo:Home offset (mm):
    <-echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
    <-echo:pID settings:
    <-echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
    ->M115

    <-echo:SD init fail
    <-FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:ROBO3DR1V2 EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 UUID:00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000
    <-ok
    ->M105

    <-ok T:31.7 /0.0 B:31.7 /0.0 T0:31.7 /0.0 @:0 B@:0
    ->M105
     
  2. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    first one is left side z-axis.

    Second one is right side z axis.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    If you didn't get this sorted out. The orange button on the z switch needs to be under the ends of the x axis facing towards you. Such that the weight of the x axis is on the buttons. You might have to adjust their height on the coupling nuts they mount on.
     
  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    #104 Mike Kelly, Jun 17, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 28, 2015
  5. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    I got them back into place. That was part of the problem.

    I tried 3 barrels I got from thingiverse. The middle of them looks like an odd-shaped canoe. I then pressed on the horizontal bar, the x-axis, and the right side was lower than the left side.

    So I turned off the printer and hand turned the right threaded rod until the left side and right side were closer together in level. The table is mostly level, so I tried another print to see if it was still out. It is, seems less, but I still get a depression in the interior of the calibration cube.

    Attached is the photo of the two above items.

    I also did M119.

    X, Y, and Z switces said they are open.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    Reduced flow from 100% to 75%. This is with Cura. Layer height 0.2, shell thickness 0.4. I may have made other changes. Attached is the 3 barrels I tried again on.

    Here is the gcode:

    G21 ;metric values
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
    M107 ;start with the fan off
    G1 Z5 F5000
    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
    M565 Z-1.1
    G29
    M300 S440 P200;A4:440
    G0 Z5
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
    G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
    M117 Printing...

    When I did the paper calibration.

    When I did
    G28 Z 15

    The nozzle moved up, and then came back down. Paper unmovable.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    My initial reaction to seeing that print is 'too bloody hot'

    Anytime you see the printed object looking 'melty' like that the filament is too hot and flowing too long after extrusion.
    I would drop your extrusion temp...Sounds like you are still fighting with getting the leveling working so that is probably not your top issue to deal with, but once you get that sorted... cool it down some.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The fact that is printed, at all, that hot ... means that your leveling is not hideously out of spec.
     
  9. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    Doesn't look like Cura kept the settings you gave me in shout.

    Here is what I currently have, drop extruder temp 5C until no longer blobby.

    1) layer height 0.2mm, shell thickness 0.4
    2) bottom/top fill 2.0mm

    Also, Cura reset itself for a bed size of 80x80mm. I changed that back to print size like in Matter Control 114x127mm. Is that correct ? Or can I do more of the entire print bed ?
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The print size is X(Width): 220 Y(length): 254

    For top/bottom layers you only really need 1.0mm sometimes I do 1.2mm.

    For perimeters you want it to be a multiple of the nozzle diameter, .4mm

    I usually use .8mm (2 perimeters) or 1.2mm (3) for that
     
  11. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    I made all those changes. but I couldn't find perimeter in Cura.
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's called shell thickness in cura
     
  13. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    Okay, got that changed to. Thanks ! We have most the items to put electricity feed out there. I've been using a 4 gauge extension cord.
     
  14. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    Tried another calibration cube, imported into Cura.

    Smaller 'bowl' shape. So I cancelled the print and lowered the nozzle temperature to 195C and a small bottom of 0.8mm instead of 1.0mm . Started another print. The x-axis switches are in the correct place. It went back up to 4 inches about the bed.

    I'll check on it on Tuesday or Wednesday, this is a busy week for me.
     
  15. JimBlue

    JimBlue Member

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    1. Any place I can get clips to lock the x-axis switches into place ? Or do I have to download and print them myself ?
      1. Does anyone have the stl file ? Or know where I can download it ?
     
  16. Roger42

    Roger42 New Member

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    Am I missing something, I've been using the R1 3d printer just fine and for some reason today on my latest print the axis is all over the place, the Z axis went all the way to the top and it was just trailing filament.

    I was looking for the autolevel and I don't see that option anyway.

    I'm beyond confused right now. I did have to lift the X axis carriage and realign the nut on both the left and right side.
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Usually that happens when one of the two Z endstop switches is out of place and triggered.

    From the terminal window (manual control) you can issue a G29, that will initiate an auto-level
     
  18. Roger42

    Roger42 New Member

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    I'm not really familiar with the G29? Can you help me a bit more with that? Thank you
     
  19. Tom Dig

    Tom Dig New Member

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    Second
    Your X axis (the carriage that the print head is mounted on) can be off kilter.
    Your X axis needs to be level in the Z plane to be able to open and close the micro switches appropriately and produce a decent level overall.
    To adjust the X axis,
    Home the print head to the center.
    Hold one of the threaded Z axis rods and turn the other one till the switch clicks. Repeat for the other side. Working back and forth, you can home in on the click. Or you can just use calipers.



    I don’t get the 2nd step???
    “Working back and forth” to do what?
    What is meant by “home in on the click”?
    What is the goal?
    Use calipers to do what?
    What is “Home the print head to the center”? I assume that you mean middle of the bed but where should Z be at?
     
  20. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Home the head. That is 0,0,0. This is the closest to balancing on the nozzle. Of course if your zero isn't working in the z you'll have to get your x axis level enough to home to 0. To get the x axis level you can raise the x axis to where you can get calipers under it and hold one side and turn the other to level. Or you can do it at the bottom z0 and listen for when the z switches click. Lower the x till its resting on the stops and the switch containing supports will continue to fall away. Raise them till they just click. Then you know they're level in the best way possible. The way the machine measures it.
     
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