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Unresolved Print issues while getting r1 up and running

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Nomad83, Jan 25, 2017.

  1. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    Finally moved somewhere I can use my printer again.

    Fixed a broken belt clip on the belt but figured I should try some calibration since it was acting weird after my e3d v6 install before I shelved it due to overheating in small aparment.

    This is the result and I'm not sure on the proper fix. Kinda of a close but no cigar finish.

    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    material? Slicer? Settings?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also which is the bottom and which is the top :)
    Really which are the first and last layers.
     
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  4. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    Sorry it was 3am. Lol

    Abs
    240c
    80c bed

    Matter control with no tweaks.
     
  5. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    The bottom is flat as the glass.

    X is front face
    Y is the right face
    Z is the top face

    As observed from the front.
     
  6. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    No Ideas?

    Tried to print a spool holder and the print failed every time.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Any ideas as to whats causing this?

    Or what to try?

    Thanks
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I sorta looks like classic over-extrusion, if your extruder is properly calibrated then try lowing the extrusion multiplier ion your slicer by a few hundredths.
     
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  8. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    Should tweaking the extruder down a bit for quick and dirty testing work?

    I have a caliper around here somewhere but haven't found it yet. So I bumped the extruder multiplier down to 95-97% in the mean time and at first it seemed to clean up a few things but I started to notice gaps in the bottom and gaps between the a perimeter and the floor of a layer.
     
  9. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    I did a fresh install of MC on my desktop and after tweaking the z lift so it prints instead of dragging the tip on the glass it still has some issue or several. This is very puzzling to me with 2 of the corners being close with a small bulge at the bottom then sucks in and slowly gets wider. While the other side is just mangled from.....? It looks like it started to warp off the bed and started the them wider base then sucking in then carnage.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    To sum up the settings from stock MC install again
    -I changed the z starting point to i could print instead off dragging the tip on the glass
    -ABS with 245C E3D v6 Extruder on 90C bed
    -.3 layer height

    This printer used to print at least good before the hexagon extruder jammed I i upgraded to the E3D & a new print bed after it sat for about a year to a year and a half after disuse and the bed shattered.. My old apartment was too small to really use it in due to overheating the entire place or running the AC and warping the ABS. So I cant help but wonder is something broken from sitting or knocked loose in the repairs or moving twice. Whatever the issue is its turned this thing from a $900 tool/toy to a headache and possible junk since If i have to deal with this too much more I'll have to shelve it again before I toss it out the window.

    Thanks!
     
  10. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    Oh and I don't think it matters but just to make sure. I'm not running any cooling fans.
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Abs is very difficult to run on the robos for the exact reason your experiencing. Maybe check out some other materials that arnt so warp prone
     
  12. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    I may branch back into PLA at some point once the bugs here are found. But it just irks me to no end that I used to be able to print at least decent to good with ABS back when i first got the printer after some minor tweaks and just winging it.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If ABS used to work then it is possibly the filament.
    Even if it is the same spool... ABS will absorb water.

    If you have not yet, try a new spool.
     
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  14. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    I just broke out the Yellow to test that idea a few days ago.

    Weirdly I got bored today and tried attaching a fan with ducting i made a few weeks ago. I printed 3 more calibration cubes

    First one was about 1/4 shorter that the one I pictured above - Possible cause located snagged filament on stock spool holder.
    Second was almost perfect with minor warp on 1 corner and a small layer separation 1/4 up the cube. 1 layer ridge on top and bottom layers.
    3rd appeared to be printing well then looks like it wasn't taking full steps between layers. This produced some internal and external bulging in affected layers and started closing off the infill structure.

    I also had to boost the z axis from .3mm to 1mm to fix it not extruding grinding through the filament again.

    Could there be some hardware fault that is intermittently causing the z axis to not move correctly?

    Picture of anything help or settings you guys want?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The only thing that would affect the Z axis specifically would be the steppers themselves (R1 series uses two) and the stepper driver for the Z axis (R1 uses 1 and the R1+ uses 2). That is about it.

    OK, you could muck up the firmware so the Z is whack, but that would always be the case and you would get no functional prints.
     
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  16. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    How would I test for that?
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    which one? Also, is this an R1 or a + model?
     
  18. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    Any or all of them. I did notice now that I think of it the extruder one got stuck a few times. Went to manually turn the extruder and it was locked solid and only moved after I forced it and something seemed to snap.

    I think its a R1. Has bottom cover if that helps narrow it down. I'd go by the bed but that's a replacement.
     
  19. Nomad83

    Nomad83 Member

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    Pulled the extruder stepper and the X stepper and the extruder one feels just a hair rougher then the X one, The biggest thing I noticed comparing the two motors was the extruder one doesn't lock up as strong as the other on the same circuit. So i'm not sure if its partially toasted or not.

    Either way thinking maybe try upgrading since the motors seem cheap enough. How hard would it be to get 400 step motors to work or is there no real benefit on a robo? Also I dislike some of the replacements being hardwired vs 1 place I found in the UK with the same style connector as the stock steppers. Hopefully there is a non overseas alternative.

    What type of connector should be on the board? Also thinking it might be worth the effort to replace the entire control wires for each stepper to ensure there is no breaks or other issues.

    So rough plan as is sits is three 400 step steppers with removable connectors and two 400 step Z motors with lead screw upgrade if they are out there.

    If I can get this bucket working I'm half tempted to ditch the stock roof? of the robo case and see about building or having a brace milled similar to a prusa (I think that's the name) and build a proper enclosure for it all.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Z steps are controlled by which style threaded rods you have (5/16 inch thread, 8mm thread, leadscrews instead of threaded rods, etc.) If you don't know pictures of the printer will help sort it.

    I haven't used the top cover on mine in years.
     

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