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Solved Auto bed level not working after lead screw upgrade

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by mamejay, Feb 10, 2017.

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  1. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Hey guys,
    I managed to upgrade by Robo 3d R1 with lead screws following this guide
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/alternative-to-the-lead-screw-upgrade-kit.7144/

    What I find now is that I cannot get the correct Z-offset dialed in.
    When doing a print the auto bed level sequence starts and goes through the 9 points. The forward points are a little lower than the rear of the bed.
    Then when the shirt is being printed the rear skirt is nice but as it draws the skirt towards the front of the bed it is doing like a dashed line of filament.
    I am suspecting that it could be the auto bed level as this would adjust the heights in software/firmware to compensate this.
    Is there something I should be taking into consideration after my lead screw upgrade?
    Thanks
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to manually level it (or try the newer branch of marlin with MESH leveling).
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Marlin ABL used in the Robo versions of the firmware will take all of the points an calculate a flat plane that intersects all the points and then apply that to the extruder as an offset. Sadly if the bed is skewed enough that will make it work like yours is :)
     
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  4. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Thanks for that Mark. How would I go about manually leveling? My model does not have leveling screws.
    My bed is only out by .5mm from left to right so I did not think that would be too skewed for the firmware to work out an offset.
    Look its not too bad. Just the first layer can be a little frayed around the edges.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I used metal shims on the new bed.
    Under the braces that hold the bearings.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @mamejay you also said the front and back printed differently, so it is not out in one direction only! Think about it like this, lets say the front right is lower than any other corner of the bed so it slopes down toward the front and it slopes down toward the right. Now the firmware measures the nine points and sees that the four corner points in the front right are lower so now it tries to compensate, but it can't from point to point, because that is not how the leveling works. In the simplest terms, (although this is not actually what it does) picture it as figuring out the average of all the points and telling itself that is where the bed should be and that is where I am going to print. So since the average height is lower that the left rear it will print there a bit smooshed and since the right front is actually below the average it will be a bit high and unsmooshed there.

    This is the reason you need to "paper" level the bed. Make it as level as humanly possible and the averages will be closer to the actual measurements.

    A newer version of Marlin is available that has additional math to account for beds that are uneven in sections (warped) but this new Marlin is unsupported by Robo on the R1 series of printers. In the new Marlin both Auto-leveling and a new manual level called MESH handle the bed that is uneven in multiple sections in essentially the same way. If you want to experiment with this new Marlin, there is a thread in the Mods and Upgrades subforum that has all the latest files pre-configured for the R1 series of printers.
     
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  7. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Thanks for all the help. It was strange my symptoms so I investigated further. It looked like it could have been my hobbed bolt being dirty and also that the filament tension was too tight. I cleaned the bolt and adjusted the tension and now the first layer is looking a lot better. The dashed line gave me the hint that the filament was being caught somewhere as it was being extruded. I will see how it goes for now.
     
  8. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Well spoke to soon. Did another print and getting the dashed line all around the skirt and first layer outline.
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You cannot escape the reality that manually leveling first will help with this issue. It's just how it is, since Marlin does NOT level from point-to-point, but rather best fits a single flat plane across every point you measure.
     
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  10. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    OK. Had a break and decided to start with a fresh mind. I changed my Z-offset to -1.0 and started to work down. Beautiful straight lines but very thin.
    I found that between -0.8 AND -0.7 and I get a nice print now.
    Z-offset has pretty much been 90% of my issues with 3D printing. Since I changed the lead screws it must has pushed it up a few points. Hopefully this is the last of it.
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is why he harp on it in the troubleshooting of printing problems. Glad you got it sorted!
     
  12. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Is there a test simplify3d factory file with different zoffset settings ? Would be good to have a single file you can print with different grades of z offset

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No. I don't know of one. Be tough since it only impacts first layer


    Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I dont know of one, but its pretty easy to adjust the Z offset in the start up scripts, test print, tweak that number again, test print until you get that perfect first layer.
     
  15. mamejay

    mamejay Member

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    Yeah true that. Just with Simplify3d you can have multiple settings for different parts in the same print. Anyway my printer is now dialed in at -0.75 and working nice. Now to the next issue of gaps in my top layer.
     
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