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Solved Scars in Walls

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Larry H, Sep 26, 2017.

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  1. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    hello,
    I replaced my hotend with a new stock hotend from robo. After a lot of retreating and dialing I thought I had it but. No matter what I try these "scars" keep showing up. I've tried changing the zoffset, cleaning my hotend fan, retraction settings, increasing the extrusion multiplier, seasoning the filament.

    I'm down to using cleaning filament to make sure it's not a partial clog, seasoning the filament again or finding or reprinting an oiler, or finding a adapter for a 25x25mm hotend fan.
    Thank you for any help I can get.
     

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    #1 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #2 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You didn't say much about the filament, but if it is PLA it could be wet (absorbed moisture) which will give you small surface artifacts from the steam bubbles.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
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  4. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Ok so since I changed out the nozzle I need to recalibrate the extrusion (forget the setting name at the moment) in the firmware. I do have the multiplier at .87 to help with accuracy, but I had turned it up to 1. Problem was still there just maybe a bit less.
    It is PLA and it is a warm room it was running in. I did have this on a day or three old opened spool of PLA too.
     
    #4 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While generally speaking new PLA can last a good while before showing signs of water absorption (more depending on how it is stored) you really do not know how it was kept before you got it or how old it already is. Not convinced this is water related at any rate since the defects are not exactly what I would expect from that. It looks (to me) more like a bit of under extrusion. Sadly visual effects can be caused by bad filament as well as by bad print settings which makes it harder to look at and identify. Step one with all of that sort of troubleshooting is "try a new spool" :)
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    failed printing is easier to troubleshoot than prints which work, but are not pretty :)
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
  7. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    I agree been trying everything I can think of apart from recalculating the extrusion firmware setting(still can't think of the real name ) it seemed like it was retraction or someone said it was scraping the layers I've changed the zoffset and changed the retraction settings nothing works or seems to for a little then nope.
     
    #7 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #8 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
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  9. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    I wish it was that it's much easier to troubleshoot. I finally upgraded to simplify 4.0 and break up the cube into five levels to test different settings at once haven't found a solution. I think I'm going to try cleaning filament just in case there is something slightly clogging it.
     
    #9 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That or try a new nozzle. It was a suggestion I was going to toss in earlier.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
  11. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    oh I really don't want too if I don't have to. The old one I clogged so severely since it was 2+ years old figured a new hotend for $40 was more worth it.
     
    #11 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    :)
    OK, nozzles are cheaper and you will eventually have to replace them as they do wear. How quickly depends on the filament types you use and amount of printing you do, but they all do wear out eventually.
     
    #12 mark tomlinson, Sep 26, 2017
  13. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    True but the heating up the stock one and carefully unscrewing it and then screw it back in. I'm afraid I'll break or not screw or back in and it'll leak. Or I'll burn myself.
     
    #13 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
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  14. Larry H

    Larry H Member

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    Ok I'm pretty sure I fixed the problem. I used cleaning filament and thought I clogged it, found it wasn't clogged just a little harder to get the filament started. I used canola oil and seasoned a decent bit of the filament and ran 300mm through it. Printed another cube and it looks like the scars are gone. *banging my head against the desk* I'll have to tweak the retraction a bit but looking much better.
    thank you for your help
     
    #14 Larry H, Sep 26, 2017
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is mostly why we just run an oiler on our FDM printers all the time. Regardless of filament type (I am lazy and don't want to have to remove it). If it is PLA it just works and it doesn't hurt any others.

    Quite honestly they are often running dry since we often forget to refresh the few drops of oil in them and still works :) If I do get a jam it is because we let it run dry for too long :)
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Sep 27, 2017
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  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    PLA benefits greatly from an oiler because the nature of the material is that when heated it actually becomes more sticky. One of the few materials that is resistant to flow until it becomes completely liquid. Sort of like car tires that stick better to the road when warmed up.
     
    #16 WheresWaldo, Sep 27, 2017
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