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Solved Couple of bed questions

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by John in MS, Jan 26, 2018.

  1. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    My bed prints about 2 inches back on the y axis from where the heated need begins. I am using MC
    [​IMG][/url][/IMG] [​IMG]

    That was when the bed works. I was printing tonight and noticed the bed had stopped heating. I checked the wires and no change no heat. Reading here it pointing to the ramps. Sound right? If so can i use the after market one i have had in the box for months? Pictured below
    [​IMG]

    Since I am printing PLA i an going to try printing with the bed off until the bed is fixed. Probably will have a big spider web in the morning
    [​IMG][/url][/IMG] [​IMG][/url][/IMG]
     
    #1 John in MS, Jan 26, 2018
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    We tell this to every R1 series owner, the graphics on the bed have no basis in reality. Just ignore them.
    Second thing we tell people, the heating element on the R1 series only covers approximately 67% of the build area.
     
    #2 WheresWaldo, Jan 26, 2018
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #3 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2018
  4. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    That looks like more trouble than its worth since I have R1

    How can I confirm its the ramps and not the bed itself? Anyway?

    I tried printing PLA and it curled on painters tape, so I need to fix this for sure
     
    #4 John in MS, Jan 27, 2018
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Read the output of the RAMPS board with a voltmeter when the bed is supposed to be heating. Since you have an R1:

    and not the R1+ ... you have a standard RAMPS board so here is the connection/output details so you know which connector has bed power (D8) :


    ramps1-4connectors.png
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2018
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you had an R1+ the board has a different layout for the connectors.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2018
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    PLA curling is probably one of two things (and not bed heater) either a bum spool of filament or .. you are printing it too hot :)
    You can print PLA on a unheated bed just fine. It should be room temp and not refrigerator temp but otherwise it will be OK for PLA
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2018
  8. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    Thanks it s the plus. Going to drop to 190 from 210 and try it
     
    #8 John in MS, Jan 27, 2018
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Then your board looks like this :) Check that you have 12v on the heat bed power plug.

    Robo3D R1 +Plus Ramps Board (labeled).jpg
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2018
  10. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    Thanks for the help. It's a late 2015 plus. Something is up with the bed heating but due to lack of funds I am going to make do

    I print strictly PLA and in the garage. It's in the fifties now so I am running a space heater right on the bed. That's bringing the bed heat to 37c with a raft which seems to stick fine with Aquanet

    That was a big problem of mine was ambient temp. I'm just going to run the heater until springtime here
     
    #10 John in MS, Jan 27, 2018
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you decide to repair it, you can replace the stock RAMPS with a standard one ... they are quite cheap (less than $20) however I would suggest getting a couple since they are ... sometimes DOA. Return the extra if you don't need it. @Geof has a thread on replacing it with a standard one. I linked it earlier in this thread.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2018
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    its easy peasy to replace that custom ramps with a generic ramps (and so much of a money saver) Worth the hour or two of swapping connectors around IMO.
     
    #12 Geof, Jan 29, 2018

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