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Solved Hot end: Price vs Quality???

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Frankn, Jun 28, 2015.

  1. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    OK, I will lay it on the line.
    I have a V6 kit and a Hex kit.
    To install the V6 kit, I have to remove the old fan mount that also mounts the bed fan. This means making or procuring new parts in order to have clearance for the 20mm cooling fins and a place to mount the bed fan.
    The V6 kit comes with a 25W heater while the hex comes with a 30W heater.. The Hex kit comes with connectors on the heater and thermistor although I did have to lengthen the heater wires. Both kits come with plenty of spare wire. The thermistor in the Hex kit is plug and play, while the one in the V6 kit requires reprogramming. The V6 thermistor has a screw attachment, while the Hex relies on a rubber boot to hold it in.
    I don.t like the boot and used silicone high.temp. sealer to mount the hex thermistor
    Now the nozzle of the Hex required a reaming with a .40 drill to clean it out, but the V6 nozzle fit the .40 drill perfectly. The V6 nozzle cost $17 EACH, while you can get a bag of Hex nozzles cheaper.
    Both kits have Chinese small extruder fans and the Hex kit included the larger bed fan.
    The V6 cost app. twice as much as the Hex which is a direct replacement. That is no mods required.
    I am getting excellent quality from the Hex and I have made several 10+ hour prints so far.
    Yes the Hex kit comes from China, But so does at least part of the V6 kit.

    Am I missing something here?
    .
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If the hex works, use it.
    If you want to add a volcano adapter at some point, you need the E3D.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    To elaborate a bit...
    The E3D is a better quality construction and is more flexible (there are spare parts available for all bits).

    The Hex you just buy a new one.

    They are both good all-metal units. I give the quality construction points to the E3D and it is also more configurable for other things (like the volcano adapter).

    If you are going to replace the hotend, I would suggest the extra $$ for the E3d, but if your Hexagon is working... no worries.
    Do it when you have a need for it.
     
  4. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Well, I have spare heater, thermistor and nozzles for the hex, What else is there to go up?
    I have a spare complete hex extruder ready to drop in, Maybe a 5 min. job. 2 bolts, two plugs.

    The V6 has a plastic filament guide inside the finned area. The Hex is metal all the way.
    What can you do with a V6 that you can't do with a hex?
    The only thing that I saw that was better right out of the box is the V6 nozzle, and that fits on the Hex, but at $17,
    I think it is way over priced.
    I am old school. I look for equipment that is good enough to do the job, Not just newer and more expensive.

    The Hex that came with my R1 was cheaply built. The finned top portion just slid over that connecting tube. Only the part that went into the hot end was threaded. A set screw held the finned top portion on. That is why they leak. It was like putting copper plumbing together without soldering.

    Back in the old days, a brand name meant something, not today. The game has changed. Magnavox means "musicbox" The name meant quality. I use to repair there equipment and it was quality. Now a days it is licensed for some junk products.
    Most corporations were started by a man with a dream to build a quality product. When he passes away, the corp. raiders descend fire ants_edited-1.jpg on there golden parachutes.
    Yea, I know, all those years have gotten to me. lol
     
  5. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Ninjaflex.

    Any of the flexible or semi-flexible filaments will be much easier on the E3D, but if you never use any of those and don't plan to then don't buy one.

    I feel the same way about Simplify3D, everyone raves about it, but I haven't found a single thing in their documentation that shows me something I can't already do with Slic3r. Since there is no demo version, I am not going to spend $150 on something that doesn't even tell me it's better than what I already use. I am voting with my wallet here, not my heart or worse someone else's feelings.

    If this whole discussion was just to justify your decision not to buy an E3D hotend, then just be happy with that decision.
     
  7. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Yea, I think we think alike on that point. We don't buy names, we buy demonstrated utility.
    I was thinking about Ninjaflex. Why would the extruder make a difference? The hex has a higher wattage heater.
    I thought the feed system would be the problem because of the softer filament.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The PTFE tube and it's ability to go right up to the hobbed bolt doesn't allow the flexible filaments to buckle. The Hexagon does not have this. Also if you think PLA is sticky in a Hexagon, TPU is worse.
     
  9. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    My V6 came with a 40W heater from printedsolid. The blue is 25w and the Red is 40. Maybe I got lucky.
     
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I've tried to be pretty consistent here in giving this advice when asked. Same thing Mark says. E3D isn't necessarily a required out of the box mod. The build quality of the metal parts themselves and the amount of thought that went into the design (a significant community effort took the design from V5 to V6). A summary of all of the differences is on our product page, or at least it will be when it comes back online, and on the E3D blog.

    The hex is a decent design and competes well with the V5. It suffers from some build quality issues, primarily in the heat break that tend to result in early failures of that part or plastic leaks up over the top of the heater block. It also has a smaller bore diameter (more like 1.9 vs closer to 2.0 on the v6). Mike went through all of these points on his thorough review and comparison of the hex vs V6 that is stickied on the mods and upgrades page.

    @Frankn where are you getting your pricing information? Who is selling E3D V6 nozzles for $17 in the US? We carry them for $9 for the standard sizes. More for stainless. More for small sizes. Most other US resellers (other than the people who bought you the junk software that comes with your printer) seem to be around the same price. The hex is ~$65 shipped, the V6 is ~$83 shipped, so it is more, but a FAR cry from twice the price.

    The V6 nozzle has some slightly different internal geometry than some others based on some great community evaluation of the V5. It also has the variable stadium shape by diameter whereas the typical chinese nozzle kits are just the exact same nozzle drilled to different diameters. Simply upgrading the nozzle makes a big difference without having to buy an entire hot end.
     
  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe he's looking at the E3D v6/Volcano kit that's on E3D now (which has a whole lot of stuff in it, both hotends, full range of nozzles for both, all the bells and whistles) instead of just the v6 and not noticing?
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is hardly a fair comparison to the standard Hexagon then...
     
  13. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    People are bad about not reading the actual product description page and just looking at the thumbnail listing and price.
     
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  14. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    You know there is a brass screw in plug in the top of the hex! I think the PTFE will fit in there when the plug is removed.
    That could take it right up to the drive bolt to get the same non bow feed. I might try it on the backup hex I have.
     
  15. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Well, I searched the pricing on Amazon.
    The problem With the V6 is it is not a direct replacement! The barrel, 'cooling fins', are about 2mm larger in diameter. This makes it necessary to remove the small fan mounting bracket. That bracket also holds the large fan, another problem. The larger fin area on the V6 doesn't give you any more cooling because they furnish the same Chinese fan the hex comes with.
    In the future, I am going to take that V6 I got from you and turn down the fins 2mm, then it will be a direct replacement, that is except for the different thermistor it comes with. I will use the stock thermistor, I think it is a EPCOS, thermistor.I will also use the hex 30W heater in place of the V6 25W heater. JUST SOME THOUGHTS!
     
  16. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Normally, I read the specs, then the questions/answers, then the reviews. I spent 32 years in engineering. Read a lot of specs and service manuals along the way. The thing is, as you get older you like to get the most and best results from the least amount of work.
    I agree, the hex that came with the R1 was junk that leaked badly at the connections. I sealed all the connections as I assembled the replacement. It appears to be the long runs, over 6 hours, that take there toll on the extruders. So far the new Hex has run a night and day constantly with no leaks and beautiful models .As the old saying goes, only time will tell.
    Hay I have a backup Hex fully assembled, just in case. A 10 minute repair! Frank _DSC0002.jpg
     
  17. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Why not just print a new parts fan holder? You can print without a parts fan on at all. Not sure why you are making this more difficult than it should be. Use the supplied parts that you get in the kit and be done. Plenty of parts fan holders you can print.
     
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  18. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Actually, I like it simple, not difficult. With the hex, it's a 10 minute job. Remove two bolts and disconnect two plugs. it's that simple.
    If the V6 had a barrel of the same diameter, it would be that simple too. Think about it.
     
  19. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Use the Hex to print the 1.75mm version of this and then do the v6 whenever you feel like you want to upgrade.

    Or do this one and be prepared for whatever you want to use in the future.
     
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  20. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    The V6 is worth the time of install. Instead of ruining a whole hotend when you get a jam or something you can just disassemble it and fix it. Also the larger diameter of hotend allows for larger filament tolerances. I had a spool that averaged 1.9mm on diameter. Would do nothing but jam in the hex. I printed the whole spool of it on the v6 without any issues. The ease of disassembly and being able to clear jams is well worth the 1 hour to wire it up.
     

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