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Unanswered Extruder won't heat up.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016.

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  1. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    MC says the temp is at 220 degrees always and I set it at 210. It then has the arrow going down but never goes down to 210 and stays at 220, but never gets above room temp. The bed heats up and the motors all work. I checked my RAMPS board at D10 and got no voltage. Voltage on D8 where the Bed is goes to 11.5 when on and 0 when off. D( i think controls the fan on the Hot End. It was a constant 11.6. It looks like it might be the RAMPS board but I also read possibly software.

    I got the Robo3d R1 second hand and haven't printed with it yet. It does not have the original hot end with it. It looks to be the E3D end. Probably a cheaper version of it. Any help would be appreciated.
     

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    #1 Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sounds like a bad thermistor.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
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  3. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    Is that the little white wire close the extruder tip in the pic?
     
    #3 Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes it appears to be the white in your pic. It looks like it's out of the hotend? Can you verify? Or add a better picture
     
    #4 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Ok on zoom the glass bead of the thermistor should be in the hole of the hotend. I'd bet that is your issue. To verify if it's good or not with the power off and unhooked from ramps ohm it.
     
    #5 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is stuck reading 220 then you have a problem that just putting it back won't fix.
    It should be reading room temp (mid 20's)
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
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  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Ah true :) I saw it hanging out of the hotend and suggested to ohm it if checked ok put it back. Short an ohm meter put it back and see what happens. I not sure if it's still going on but when I used matter control it almost always showed 220.... Part of the reason for the switch. It would show 220 press print then 40 and climb to my set temp. Wired slicer lol
     
    #7 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  8. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    I press print and bed comes to temp. Then it sets at waiting on extruder to lower to 210. Can set there for an hour. Never gets below 218.5. I can check it with temp gun and it's at like 75°f. Going to try to get ohm reading.
     
    #8 Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016
  9. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    Does 114 sound right?
     
    #9 Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'm making an assumption that it's a 100 ohm so yea pretty close.

    1. Is it in the heater core ? Should be secured like the heater is
    2. Is it plugged into the ramps
    3. It looks like someone did a hack away job at the wiring to put the just connectors on (might just be the picture) is there good connection there?
    4. Was it working when you got it and it just quit ? Or non functioning when you purchased?
     
    #10 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  11. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    Yes 114 ohms.

    No its not in the heater core. (Don't see where to put it)

    It is plugged into the ramps.

    It is hacked up! Lol. I will fix that once I fix the problem.

    I haven't used it yet but I have seen it used and the guy said it was used up until about 2 weeks ago when he purchased a dual extruder $8k printer.
     
    #11 Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Can you show a picture of the side of the heater that your thermistor is hanging on ? Mine is printing at the moment

    Found an imagine on Google to share lol
     
    #12 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Should be like this if it's a e3dv6.

    If it's hexagon there is a hole in the side with a set screw on the bottom but that isn't a hexagon I don't think, the hexagon has a different thermistor.
     

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    #13 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #14 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    This is the new style hexagon with a canister looking thermistor, set screw on the bottom to hold in place, no rubber boot on my robo plus on the stock or replacement hexagons
     

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    #15 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is an improvement :)
    Still can't say if the MetalStud thermistor with thread into that hole.

    You might have to tap it (other 3rd party ones like the E3D are threaded)
     
    #16 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    No sadly it will not :-(. I have 3 of them darn hot ends before I sacked up and bought the v6 lol now I have to build 3 pla printers to use up my hot ends lol
     
    #17 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Scratch that if you tap the hole it's possible ! Granted need a flat tap for the blind hole but I think there just might be enough material there to play with.

    @Aflickted didn't mean to hijack your post with hexagon talk lol were you able to find where it's suppose to go ?
     
    #18 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
  19. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    I think I have in the right place but it isn't held in by anything but the force of the heater.
     

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    #19 Aflickted, Mar 29, 2016
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That looks like a hexagon heater core is there a set screw on the bottom? Nozzle side by bottom
     
    #20 Geof, Mar 29, 2016
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