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Unresolved Can you identify the cause of the issues present in this print?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Oisin, Sep 14, 2016.

  1. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Hey guys! I'm looking to really dial in my printer so that it's as reliable as possible. I printed a large vase to see what issues were obvious.

    Can you tell me what you think of the overall quality and can you tell me how to solve the issues present?

    To begin with; I am printing at 195C with PLA. 35mm/s, no heated bed and one cooling fan.

    Issue 1: Strange ringing pattern. It isn't the classic 'ghosting'. It's some sort of weird angular resonant pattern. Can't pin this one down and it's been there for months. I'd love to get rid of it. Examples are shown in the 'Curved Ringing' images. It's not the obvious large single curve. I'm not sure what that is. If you look really closely you'll see what I mean. The surface of every model I print is covered in tiny wavy ripples.

    Issue 2: Layer transition seams. Large and obvious scar up the side of the vase. Is there any way to hide the point at which the z-axis moves up each layer?

    Issue 3: Rough pattern at the top of the vase either side of the layer seam. I'm not sure why that's only near the top.

    If the ringing was gone and the seam was no longer apparent, the only issue left with my printer is the fact it doesn't like printing overhangs at all. This print does not display that as there are no overhangs but if you have any advice on that I'd appreciate it. I can't fit a second cooling fan on my printer as I have started using jim3Dbots IR height sensor which replaced my second fan.
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For #2 randomize the start point for each layer.
    For #1 it has to be some resonance in the axis drive. If you can isolate it to a single axis I would start there. This is going to be the hardest thing to fix :)
    #3 is related to #2, but only noticeable at the top.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    How do overhangs fail?
     
    Geof likes this.
  4. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Hi Mark. Thanks for the feedback!

    What do you think of the quality of the print? Compared to yours?

    I'll randomize the start points and try. I think when I did that last it created lots of little pock marks but that was a while ago.

    Resonance in the axis drive. Hmm.... I tried using vibration dampeners to make the x and y steppers quieter. I removed them but maybe I didn't tighten screws correctly. I'll take a look.

    I'm not sure #3 is related to #2. By #3 I meant the rough pattern shown to the left of the seam on the flat plane in the image titled 'Defect near the seam'.

    Overhangs fail as the layers droop on each other. I'm sure it's a cooling issue but it happens when I print at 180C with my fan on 100%. Similar to the pink image attached. I'd love to print overhangs and have them come out like the other image.
     

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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have an opportunity there to clean the (right hand) one a bit. Which slicers have you tried?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The overhang just needs more cooling. Have you considered a duct for the fan?
     
  7. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    I feel like the printer should be able to cope with that overhang though. If one printer can do the image on the left I can't imagine why a Robo can't do it. Same principals apply surely?

    I have a duct but I don't think it's very good. It's all that would fit with my e3d v6.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, it can deal with it. If you get enough cooling (or less heat to start with, or both) then you can do amazing overhangs. This is not a generic issue with Robo.

    Getting your printer fine tuned is an on-going process and you are doing it on commodity hardware :)
     
  9. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    So since I can only mount one fan, I'll need a much stronger one I'm guessing. I've already tried printing at 175C. I'll have to modify the firmware if I want to print colder.

    How do you mean commodity hardware? I've had my Robo for 2 years now and sunk $1500 dollars extra in to it to get it this far. Hopefully I'll be able to get the cooling sorted and be happy with the quality of prints! I think I've earned it at this stage, haha.
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You can add a 2nd cooling fan. Moding is key :)
     
  11. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    I don't think I can. Left of the extruder is the endstop screw. Right is the barrel cooling fan. In front is the part cooling fan and behind is the IR sensor. Can't get another fan in there without losing print area I think.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    20160812_132028.jpg

    Like this.
     
  13. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    That's what I used to have until I got rid of the fan on the left side of your picture so I could install the IR sensor. Now that spot is occupied.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Without the additional cooling my opinion is your bridging and overhangs will not be as good as they were. You can try to drop heat to a temp that requires less cooling as a possible fix, or maybe a stronger part fan and use a 360 nozzle shroud ? Just guessing here.

    Others will likely chime in if they have a similar set up and what works for them. I apologize for not being of much more help.
     
  15. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    They were never good. I assume I just bought cheap fans though. I'll look for a nice strong one this time and use this fan shroud: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409483 if I can make it fit.

    With regards to temperature, I have poor results down to 180C. I will modify the firmware so I can print even cooler and see what happens.

    Thanks very much for the input, Geof! I appreciate it.
     
  16. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  18. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Okay, and with regards to the fan?

    I also had a print fail yesterday because the Zebra Plate bed came loose. I'm having trouble finding a way to secure it to my glass bed due to the 5mm space between the housing and the side of the glass bed. Is a metal binder clip with the handles cut off safe to use with the glass or will I crack it? It's the only thing I can thing of that will fit through that gap.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I used binder clips for the glass plate on a beta -- should be fine.
     
  20. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Okay great. Thanks for the quick replies, Mark.
     

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