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Smallest Detail

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017.

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  1. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Hello everyone and Happy New Years! So I woke up this morning with a question on my mind. What is the smallest level of detail the Robo R1+ can print at in millimeters, If that makes sense. Example, I printed off a sword for my Gunpla so its somewhat large but small enough for a 6 inch model of a Gundam. Well the Handle is about 2mm around with chamfers that are 0.889mm. Are those chamfers too small on the handle for the Robo R1+ to print? Because when I printed the sword, either they are too small to see, or they didnt print and it just rounded the handle out.
     
    #1 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on nozzle diameter and a number of other minor details :) The smaller the nozzle the more detail (as a general rule of thumb) at the cost or longer print times.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    One of the robos we have configured with an E3D volcano and 1mm nozzles. Great for faster and larger prints with decent detail. The other is using a regular E3D with 0.25 nozzle for a much higher detail (and much slower) print. The delta is currently right in the middle with a 0.6

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    #3 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
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  4. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Not sure what the Nozzle diameter is on my Robo R1+ XD Its stock with whatever it came with. But I am guessing that its not small enough for the level of detailing in my designs, which means back to the drawing board to redesign some swords XD
     
    #4 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The stock is a rather common size ... 0.4mm

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  6. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Do you think I should try a print with roughly the same level of detailing or should i make sure my angles and lines are around 1mm and over? Based on knowing that i have a stock nozzle. Would like to waste as little filament as possible with low quality prints. Also another question as it popped into my head, does print quality make a difference in the level of detail? As i printed in Medium quality, Would have High quality been a better choice?
     
    #6 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Think of it this way (simplistic but it helps) you are putting down strips of plastic that are nozzle diameter in width and layer height tall.

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    #7 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I dont use MC so I have no clue what medium quality means for those settings

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    #8 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  9. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Alrighty XD Thanks for the replies :D Going to get back into Fusion 360 and rework these designs.
     
    #9 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Have fun. To complicate things :) the width of the filament deposited is never exactly nozzle diameter because some filament types expand a bit and others shrink a bit. But it should be quite close. As the nozzle wears the diameter will grow.

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    #10 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  11. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Great lol well Does Robo 3D sell different nozzles or where would I go to get other nozzles? And is it a good idea to have a few nozzles laying around to switch it up for different prints?
     
    #11 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes... having extra nozzles is good and cheap. Any normal E3D compatible nozzles will work (avoid the E3D volcano nozzles)

    Printedsolid.com carries them or use Amazon or wherever you prefer.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
    #12 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  13. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Alrighty thanks XD I will shop around and see where i can get the best price. And will do to avoid volcano nozzles lol
     
    #13 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    What mark says about the nozzle size is spot on. I use the new e3d .15 nozzle and can print .05mm layers all day and have pushed down to .01 (I can't see a difference, but the print time sure does, so no clue what to say about it lol )

    I use that nozzle for fun and now just started producing toy parts (collectible antique stuff you can't get parts for) and model kits that people want (this is all customer work, not my own ). .25 is more reliable but .15 makes very small high detail pieces that are frankly quite amazing off our little 800.00 printerss:). Not sure if this helps or if I'm rambling lol but there it is ? :D
     
    #14 Geof, Jan 1, 2017
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  15. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    Yeah Im thinking about getting a variety of nozzles since from what i have read is some prints will require certain nozzles XD I plan on 3D printing a full size Buster sword So if i understood correctly, Larger diameter nozzle will help with strength of the prints and make it faster to print at the cost of detail. where I would want a really small diameter nozzle for stuff like my gunpla swords. :D I tend to do the tiniest of details so i think im going to just get a bunch of nozzles and experiment XD
     
    #15 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Thicker layers print faster with (a very small) loss of detail. (The difference in fractions of a mm are hard to see)

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
    #16 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
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  17. Allelujah

    Allelujah Member

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    So i have another question but this time about how to remove a nozzle that is on really tight. I dont want to strip it and or break anything trying to get it off, but when needing to clean it i cant seem to remove it XD Im not doing it now, but the last time i switched filaments there was a jam but luckly got cleared by pushing other filament through. But i couldnt remove the nozzle. Do i need to replace that whole assembly when getting new nozzles since i think it is on too tight?
     
    #17 Allelujah, Jan 1, 2017
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Th hey have to be installed and remove ed ... hot. Heat the nozzle to 230 or so and (carefully) break it loose with two wrenches. One on the nozzle and the other holding the heater block so it does not move. Once it is loose cool it down and remove it

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    #18 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Installtion is the reverse. Hand tight then heat it to 230 and snug it back it. No Gorilla grip needed just nice and snug

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    #19 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is needed because the heater block and nozzle are not the same metal which means they heat and cool at differing rates. If you only tighten them cold they will get loose with use

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    #20 mark tomlinson, Jan 1, 2017
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