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3D Printer settings - MatterControl

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by JWW, Dec 6, 2016.

  1. JWW

    JWW Member

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    I haven't printed in quite sometime so I'm out of touch with some print settings. Sure would appreciate hearing from someone in the know what would be the optimal settings to print this in PLA (heat, speed, fill etc.)? I realize setting can very. It's small, approximately .5" wide and 1.25" long. Thanks very much.

    2016-12-06_15-49-18.jpg
     
  2. Sliced Br3D

    Sliced Br3D New Member

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    I just use the default settings - the only thing I had to change was the Z offset to .07, and print quality to high.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I dont use matter control but for me I try to stay 40-50% of the nozzle size layer height (so .4 stock nozzle = .2mm layer height). Print speed and temp depend on your quality standards. for temperature run test prints until you find the optimal QA for your needs. print speed is directly related to the resolution. ex. if I print .3 mm layer height I run 80mm/s on my modified set up. if I run .2mm layers I run no faster than 60-70mm/s if i run .1mm layers I run no faster than 40 mm/s.

    These are examples not hard fast rules so you have an idea where to start.

    For most PLA I print 190-hotend 55-bed with hairspray as my adhesion.

    Comparing temperatures can be a fools game but it gives you an example vs the stock options in matter control (I think it was 210 hotend)
     
    #3 Geof, Dec 7, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  4. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I would agree with all the above and add; if you want it stronger then more infill if it isn't going to be needed to be tough then less. I would go at least 20% or more.
     
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  5. JWW

    JWW Member

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    This probably won't print correctly with the 0.13" overhang, meaning a nice corner like the bottom half? I don't want to use rafts or any sort of support.

    2016-12-08_16-55-02.jpg
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That overhang will likely not work out well if you print it in that orientation (not that I can think of a good orientation with no supports).
    You certainly will not get a sharp corner like that.

    It will work with supports, but still not likely as sharp a corner. If I had to do that I would likely go with the curved side down, but I would still enable support if the slicer decided it needed it.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Dec 8, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  7. JWW

    JWW Member

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    ... thanks, looks like I'll have to machine it then.

    -Regards
     
  8. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    If it were me, I would make the model into two pieces.
    Cut the top so the bottom of the top over hang is now flat on the print bed.
    You would then have to glue two pieces together but it would look perfect.
     
  9. JWW

    JWW Member

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    ... interesting idea Rigmarol. Can you glue PLA, that's what I'm using.
     
  10. JWW

    JWW Member

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    BTW, I should mention that the original posted model printed great.

    File Dec 06, 7 56 07 PM - Copy.jpg
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    CA glue or Model Airplane cement work wonders on PLA.
     
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  12. JWW

    JWW Member

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    Thanks very much.
     
  13. JWW

    JWW Member

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    Back when I was printing, I usually uploaded my .STL files to MS Model Repair Service. After it checked and repaired the files, I don't recall receiving a *_repaired.3mf file? What's up with that? Do I rename the extension to .STL or do I have to convert that file somehow back to .STL?
     
  14. JWW

    JWW Member

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    One more question. Would someone mind explaining to me what General > Infill > Fill density means? I don't understand the definition as it's given in the help. A couple of examples would be appreciated.

    Regards,
    -JW:
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    https://azure.netfabb.com/ gave me an STL file while https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net/ gave me a 3mf

    If you want to use the 3MF, yes you need to convert it first.
     
  16. JWW

    JWW Member

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    Thanks Mark, that's pretty odd. I had the site book marked that I used to go to and use, and it did say Netfabb, o'well.
     
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    For the superglue if your incredibly fast pick up some loctite 406. But! It does mean INSTANT
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, that is the downside. I actually mostly use model airplane cement on PLA, but one of my most favorite glues (and it works on anything non-porous) is https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

    You can get a generic version of this from various places (cheaper) even the UV activator pens can be had from China :)

    Technically it is http://notaglue.com/ If you appreciate the pun.
     
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  19. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I didn't get back quickly on the glue question.
    I tried the UV glue. No luck at all. It's quick and handy and has a cool factor at first but all the items I bonded failed after a few days on simple low impact handling. ie a wheel glued to an axle, or a hat glued to a clown and so on. Try it if you want, it's inexpensive enough to learn on.

    I like super glue but have had mixed results on larger items. Great for small items that don't print well on the model and have to be added later.

    My "go to" glue that has never failed me is simply "Gorilla Glue" It's VERY thick and a little goes a LONG way. over glue globs are easy to cut off and clean up too.

    That's my experience so far.
     
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